If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
The rubber bumper sits between the burner and the range itself to ensure the burners do not scrape the stove top. This OEM replacement bumper is sourced directly from the manufacturer, and is sold individually.
Having trouble with your wobbly GE range? Our adjustable leveling leg is the simple solution you've been looking for. When your range isn't sitting perfectly even, it can lead to a host of issues from...
This broil unit generates high heat for broiling and finishing cooking tasks. It is designed to deliver consistent heat output for effective cooking performance. Replacing a worn or damaged broil unit...
This triple radiant surface element is designed for GE electric ranges, offering three heating zones—6 inches, 9 inches, and 12 inches—in one unit for maximum versatility. It adapts to different pot a...
This is made of rubber and acts as insulation at the bottom of the door frame, it has hooks at each end to attach to the frame.
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Questions And Answers for PCB969DR1WW
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Larry
February 13, 2026
The Oven turns on and heats well. When I turn the oven off, it cools down but still heats the oven at a very low heat , so it doesn't completely turn off . When I turn the break off and on. The oven is off and no heat, but if I turn the oven on again to 400 and turn it off it cools down to 100 degrees, so I have to turn the breaker off again to reset the oven .
Any ideas on the fix and parts needed,
Thanks Larry
For model number PCB969DR1WW
Hi Larry, thank you for reaching out. We would suggest checking the oven temperature sensor first. If it is fine, the issue could be due to a faulty control board, part number PS16874649, and replacing it might fix the issue. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
Slide range out. Remove screws holding back vent in place. Remove back vent. Remove screws under front panel and knobs. Lift glass cooktop. Remove screws holding switch in place (behind knob) unplug each wire from switch and immediately replace in same spots on new switch. Replace everything.
