These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
The agitator kit is most commonly used if the top part of the agitator is not moving correctly but the bottom is. This kit now includes all pieces shown in photo plus the thrust spacer, inner cap seal...
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
This main outer tub seal is a critical component that prevents water from leaking at the bottom of the tub during operation. Measuring approximately 2 inches in diameter, it is constructed from durabl...
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Questions And Answers for MVWC300VW1
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Bill
March 30, 2023
Does this washer have a filter to clean once in a while. If so where is located? Thank You
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hello Bill, thank you for contacting us. Based on our research, your model does not contain a filter. We hope this helps!
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Karl
October 18, 2024
Water dripping in tub when not in use. Water intake valve not sealing when not in use. What part do I need.
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hello Karl. Thank you for reaching out. This is an indication the Washer Water Inlet Valve with Thermistor will need to be replaced. Feel free to reach out if you need assistance with placing an order!
My washer will agitate but it doesnt move back and forth as much as it is supposed to. Also when the spin cycle first starts it makes a loud clunk sound before starting. Does this sound like a gearbox?
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hello Shawn,
Thank you for your question. Our sources agree that it is likely to be the gear case under part PS341974 for your model that is causing both the loud noise and the agitator issues for your washer. We hope this helps.
Washer will fill and will not cycle to agitate, rinse, or spin. Bypassed lid switch to see i f that was it and it wasn't. Not sure what to do now.
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hello Timothy, thank you for your question. It could be your timer or water-level switch. You can test these parts with a multimeter. Unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet before you begin. To test the timer, Touch the two probes of the volt-ohm meter to the contact points to be tested. There should be no continuity reading on the volt-ohm meter during the test. If there is a reading on the volt-ohm meter, the timer is faulty. Part number PS11749597. The water level switch has three terminals. Test them for continuity in pairs. First, touch the meter probes to terminals 1 and 2. Note the reading, which should be either 8 (infinity, which means no continuity) or some value close to 0.0 (continuity). Analyze the results of the continuity tests: Two of the pairs should have no continuity, and one should have continuity. If you get a different result, the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. Part number PS11750714. We hope this helps!
The washer was full of clothes and water and only makes a humming sound. We have drained it and wonder what could be wrong with it.
For model number MVWC300VW1
Hello Dawn, thank you for your question. There are a few parts that could be causing this issue. The lid switch, drain pump should be tested first. I hope this helps!
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
The instructions came with the repair kit, it was fairly simple and straight foward.
One bolt held the entire agitator unit in the washer, as well as held the upper and lower halves together. Once that nut was removed the two halves seperated and the plastic clutch pieces could easily be replaced wtih the new onces in the repair kit.
Very easy do-it-yourself repair! Took about 20 minutes because I was being cautious. Next time I could do it in 5 minutes.
On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck
