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$58.55
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Questions And Answers for MVWB855DC4
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Christi
March 2, 2023
I’m looking for some help to fix my broken lid on my Bravos XL Maytag washer. Only 3 years old….
The lid lock/latch broke. Lid was closed hard and the plastic part broke.
Looking for a replacement on that part.
Lid seems fine. Washer won’t start because lid won’t shut all the way.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Christi
For model number MVWB855DC4
Hi Christi, thank you for contacting us. You may need to check the lid lock assembly, part number PS11731620, to fix the issue. If still the problem exists, then you may need to replace the lid, part number PS12584340. We hope this solves your problem!
I can hear sitting water sloshing around in the bottom of my washer, trying to figure out how to get rid of it and fix what’s happening. Also, is there a filter in this machine that I can manually clean?
For model number MVWB855DC4
Hi Trish,
Thank you for your question. If you have standing water in the bottom of your washer, we recommend checking the drain hose and the drain pump. Check the drain hose to see if it is clogged and if it is, try cleaning it out. If cleaning it does not help, it will need to be replaced. If it is not clogged, make sure that the drain hose is not kinked and that it is positioned correctly. If the drain hose is more than 5 inches down in the standpipe, adjust it so it is at the proper level. Inspect the drain pump visually for any damage and to make sure that the hoses and clamps are properly fitted. If there are no signs of damage, test the drain pump for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting to see if it is operating normally. When touching the terminals, you should receive a reading of zero or nearly zero. Then test the ground connection by touching one of the probes to the bare metal housing while leaving one on a terminal. This test should not produce any reading. If you get any other readings, then the drain pump will need to be replaced. There is a filter located at the bottom of the tub. We hope this helps!
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.
