This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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This gas oven safety valve is used to make sure that no gas is released until the igniter is ready to ignite. This part is for both the bake and broil igniter in your appliance.
$388.23
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Questions And Answers for MGS5770ADC
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Nora
March 5, 2020
My Maytag model mgs5770adc will not light neither top burners nor oven
For model number MGS5770ADC
Hello Nora, thank you for your question. We would recommend checking the gas valve and the gas source to the unit. If there is no gas getting to the unit the stove top burners and oven will not function. If there is gas getting into the unit we would recommend checking the spark module, ignition switches oven igniters and top burner electrodes. I hope this helps.
Where is the spark module located I have the part but not know where it goes
For model number MGS5570ADC
Hi Leslie, thank you for your inquiry. The spark module is located below the range surface or top panel. You will need to remove the surface element grates, unscrew the screws holding the element to the surface. Once you unscrew all the elements, you can gently pry the top panel. Once you remove the panel, you can access the spark electrode. Always take a picture of the wiring before replacing it with the new one. Glad to be of help!
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
Lift out sealed burner assembly rear of stove first while careully sliding to rear to disengage ignitor probes.Remove philips head screws from bottom sheet metal housing to expose bottom of burners Remove gas tube assembly screws and move tube away carefully.Unplug wires from ignitor.Remove screws for ignitor .Remove ignitor, I noticed that rust and dirt had built up around burner to pan connection.I used my oil filter wrench to turn slightly the burner to remove it from the pan to clean.Reassembled in reverse order.
