The oven sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity and sends the information to the control board. If your oven is not heating evenly, has little or no heat when baking, or is too hot, you...
If your oven isn’t heating properly or the flame seems weak, this igniter might be the fix. It helps start the oven by glowing and lighting the gas so you can bake and broil as usual. It works with ma...
This part is a replacement halogen lamp for your oven. The bulb is 25 watts and 120 volts. If your light bulb is burned out, this is the part that replaces it. Be sure to turn off power to your range ...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
Keep your oven safe and functional with this replacement interior door glass, the heat-resistant panel that lines the inside of your oven door. With dimensions of approximately 20 5/8" x 13 1/8", it f...
This is a replacement screw and washer for your oven/range. It is a Phillips-head screw approximately half an inch long, and the washer is approximately 1 inch in diameter. The screw attaches the oven...
Struggling with a misbehaving range burner that wont light up? Hang tight, weve got just the solution: the Whirlpool Surface Burner Spark Igniter. This is an authentic, OEM part, designed specifically...
This hinge can be used for either the left or the right side of the oven door. Sold individually.
$152.33
In Stock
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Jim
December 14, 2023
Maytag Gemini MGR6772BDQ that is unable to bake or broil in its upper oven. Both ignitors are not lighting up
For model number MGR6772BDQ
Hi Jim, thank you for getting in touch. We have researched and found that the issue is because of the spark module, part number PS2094592. It sends current to the igniter to create a spark at the bottom of the burners. We would recommend checking the spark module to fix the issue. Good luck with your repair!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
First I removed the lower tray and all parts covering the ignitor on the upper oven. 2. Then I removed the screws holding down the ignitor and flame distributor. 3. I then had to pull out the oven from the wall and remove the back panel to expose the wires connecting the ignitor. This required the removal of about six screws but they were fairly easy to get to. 4. I disconnected the ignitor from the back panel then went around to the front of the oven and pulled out the ignitor and all of the attached parts. 5. Here's the tricky part. The screws holding the ignitor in place had fused from the heat and then the threads stripped when I tried to remove them. I had to use a dremel tool and cutting wheel to carefully cut the screws off and then went to buy some replacement screws from the hardware store. 6. I replaced them with a nut and a bolt, to hopefully avoid the same problem for later replacement if necessary. 7. I then replaced everything the same way it came out and all is working like new!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.
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