This hose clamp extends from half an inch to an inch in diameter. It is made entirely of metal and is intended for use with Maytag brand washing machines.
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This v-shaped spin belt helps transfer power from the motor to the transmission to help pump the water in and out of the washer. It also helps runs the spin cycle in the washer.
This pump is attached to the motor and helps expel water from the washing machine. It is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
This wheel has a center metallic bearing. A dryer's idler pulley wheel serves to help the belt to rotate the drum.
$81.26
In Stock
Questions And Answers for LWA50AW
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Shanae
February 20, 2020
Cold water will not run into the washer. Will an intake unit resolve this problem?
For model number LWA50AW
Hi Shanae,
Thank you for your question. If the washer will not fill with water, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the inlet hoses and screens, the water inlet valve, the lid switch, the selector switch or water temperature switch, the water level switch and the timer. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.
Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)
Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.
Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.
Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)
Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)
Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.
Replace pump screws.
Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.
Replace motor screws and connector.
Re-attach hoses on pump.
Button up cabinet.
Done.
The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.
Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
This was the second time for the repair. The original bearing lasted 5 years then became noisy. Replaced it, and the unit worked great 5 more years and the noise came back. So I knew exactly what needed fixing what to order, parts wise. This is not a project for the faint of heart, you will completely disassemble your washer to change out the main bearing. Roughly here are the steps: 1, pull out the agitator with a good firm jerk up. 2, remove the rubber plug in the center of the drive hub, 3 remove the bolt you have just exposed. 4, pry up on the hub, use a puller if you have to to remove it. 5, pry off the cone shaped rubber seal and remove the large main nut from the drive shaft. 6, remove the 4 bolts holding tub, 7 remove the front panel and unscrew the front of the top panel, tip the top up. 8, lift out the tub, 9, remove the 6 large springs holdig the inner assembly to the base, 10, disconnect the water to tank hose and the fill level hose, 11, disconnect the motor cable at the motor, 12, free up the drain hose and pull it, 13, have a helper lift the inner assembly out and move it to a work area, 14, unbolt the drum from the base, motor, and counter weight 15, pry the drive hub off the transmission shaft, 16, remove the rubber seal from the drum, 17 flip the drum and remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing in place. Reverse to put it back. These steps are from memory so they may not be exact. The exploded views on PartsSelect.com web help, as to the instructions that come with the parts.
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project. 1. Take the front covers off. 2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt 3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel. 4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses. 5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4) 6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor. 7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft. 8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned. 9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes. 10. Attach the belt and test the pump. 11. Put the front back on.
.gif "MISCELLAEOUS INFORMATION Diagram and Parts List for PLWA50AW Amana Washer")
