The tumbler and motor belt in your dryer allows the drum to spin during the drying cycle. At 100 inches in length, this dryer drum belt is 3/8 of an inch wide and has five ridges. The belt is black in...
$41.10
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This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. A rivet tool is required for this installation.
$18.64
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This gas dryer ignition coil set comes with two ignition coils: one three-terminal boost/hold coil, and one two terminal secondary coil. Usually only one of them burns out but you should replace them ...
$39.15
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This part is used to help the belt to rotate the drum. It is white and made of plastic with a metallic bearing in the center.
$24.43
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Questions And Answers for LDG9806AAM
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Kermit
May 30, 2023
I cannot get the dryer top to release. It seems to be locked/frozen in place. I used metal putty knife, pushing in on release clips and still cannot lift top free. One release clip fell into the body. Is it possible, with the age of this unit, the top is frozen in place? Paint is in good shape with no signs of rust.
For model number LDG9806AAM
Hello Kermit, thank you for reaching out. The top unit may be stuck in the tabs. Use the following instructions to remove the front panel:
1. Disconnect the power.
2. The main top is held in place with the help of two clips.
3. Slide the putty knife near the tabs and depress them.
4. Tilt the top back and lean it up.
We hope this information helps!
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Removed the front cover (screws on bottom 0f face)...removed blower cover....spring pliers to remove and install blower fan. the rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the shell as well as the vent. Reassembled and dryer runs better than it has for many years.
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom). 2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing. 3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum. 4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings. 5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits. 6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together. 7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing. 8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily). 9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
