LDC22720ST LG Refrigerator - Instructions

This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the back plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....

As per utube

Take out 2 screws and unplug unit before removing. Plug-in new unit and screw in 2 screws. That's it.

This couldn't have been easier. Two tiny screws in the front needed unscrewed, and then two plastic clips in the middle just had to be popped lose. Finally, you unplugged the power cord. Then, you just needed to reverse the process by plugging the new ice maker in, popping the clips in place, and screwing the two holes back in and turning the whole thing on. Voila! Perfect ice cubes again. And for only a little over $100.

removed three screws from each guide and removed. Replaced with new guides using the same screws.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

Ordered the Part after looking at the choices shown, once I inspected the unit. I then knew by looks what would fit. THEN (important) went on Utube asking for video instructions. They had it on the computer and it was just too easy. What took the longest was the removable of the frozen food items and the drawers in the Bottom Freezer section.
Perfect product, perfect instructions, perfect job and worked perfectly!

Fridge only 18 months old too!

Handyman wanted $457.00 to do the job! HA.

part fit into slot and screwed them down

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.