This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$28.95
In Stock
Order within the next 3 hrs and your part ships today!
This kit contains 4 grate feet for a range. These are the feet to fit your burner grates so the burner will not scratch your cooktop. The are black in color and made of rubber. These feet are fitted w...
$16.95
In Stock
Order within the next 3 hrs and your part ships today!
This cooktop cleaner will cut through tough grease and baked-on residue. The cleaner will leave a protective coating of silicone on the cooktop surface as it cleans. This 10oz bottle is safe for all g...
This surface igniter provides reliable ignition by generating the heat needed to light the burner safely and efficiently. Proper ignition improves cooking performance and safety. Replacing a worn igni...
$32.34
In Stock
Order within the next 3 hrs and your part ships today!
Do you need a sturdy and reliable burner grate for your Whirlpool range? The Whirlpool GRATE-KIT has you covered. This authentic OEM part is designed with precision to ensure it fits perfectly and ins...
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!