KFGS306VSS02 KitchenAid Cooktop - Overview

Turn off gas and unplug cooktop. Lift off the 3 grills. Lift off the cast iron and aluminum burner parts. Lift off the five control knobs, noting that the middle knob has a thicker stem.Find star bit that fits the machine screws around each burner. Start removing with the bit in a nut driver. If you have to use a 1/4 inch socket for some, try not to break or strip the screws or the bit. Apply heat with a propane torch if stuck hard. After that, lift stainless tray off. Lift out foil pad. Mine was the center burner igniter. Using two wrenches each side, disconnect gas lines from each side. Phillips head to disconnect plate from burner. The igniter is held in place with spring and clip. Unplug igniter wire from electronic box. I used a hemostat so as not to lose the spring clip .Spring can be removed at the plug end of the wire. A big allen key fits the one inch wide middle burner part - remove it. Now pull the old igniter out through the top of the burner. Use a small round file to make the igniter hole smoother and maybe slightly larger. Thread new igniter through hole, plug end first. Spring and clip on bottom are hard to get. Try not to lose the clip- It can spring off into space.Plug igniter wire into electronic box. I used an anti-seize compound on all threaded parts. Go carefully in reverse order . Plug in cooktop and turn on gas. test new igniter. Good luck

I thought the problem was with one ignitor that had the ceramic piece fall off. After I replaced the ignitor, the hard part was freeing the burner from the Torx screws - drilled both screws out, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking even when the burners were lit. I needed to get at the electrical of the cooktop, so I needed to take the other four burners off. Six of the eight screws loosened, with the two that didn't I drilled them out. I made sure the circuit was off and unplugged the burner too. Finally I was able to look at the wiring. I checked for burn marks, made sure all the connections were good, checked the grounding wires, and then attached the burners with ignitors. I turned the power back on, plugged it in, and all the burners kept right on sparking. I had been checking on Youtube and talked to a friend, everything pointed to needing a new Spark Module. So I ordered the Spark Module and just had to wait for it to arrive. Once it came, I had done the hard part of getting all the burners off. So, after loosening four hex-head screws, I was able to replace the old Spark Module with the new. I was careful to take a picture of the wiring and burners, as well as the wires coming into the Spark Module to make sure I put everything back the way it was. Finally, I moved one line at a time from the old one to the new one. Took the back clip off and put it on the new one. Then I secured the new Spark Module with the four hex-head screws, fed the wires through the holes in the top of the cooktop by holding it at an angle and working my way from left to right (all while lowering the cooktop), lined up the gas line pipes, and reattached the burners. Turned the power on, plugged it in and it worked! All five burners ignited and worked just like they should. What started out as a simple cleaning of the ignitors, turned into quite a job. Thanks to the ease of PartSelect ordering and reading through these installation instructions I was able to fix my cooktop.

Replaced the spark module. Make sure you mark the wire locations on the existing spark module and install them in the same slots.

I was able to repalce without pulling the cooktop out. The access is from the bottom.