This is the burner head and electrode for your gas range. If your gas igniter glows but will not light, or if the element will not start or heat entirely, you may need to replace the burner head. This...
$103.41
In Stock
Order within the next 8 hrs and your part ships today!
This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
$118.15
In Stock
Order within the next 8 hrs and your part ships today!
Order within the next 8 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for JGD3430BS00
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
2 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
David
February 13, 2023
The electrical plug got accidentally pulled out of the outlet under the stovetop, and after plugging it back in, the igniter continually clicks. I'm able to light all four burners, but even after igniting them, the igniter continues to click. Any ideas?
For model number JGD3430BS00
Hi David, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, the issue is probably with the following parts: burner electrode, part number PS11744318, and spark module, part number PS11755329. We hope this sorts out your problem!
I am in search for cartridge assembly drip pan for the above mentioned gas top range model. Please assist me in what would be the correct item that will safely fit my Jen Air gas stove top.
Thank you for your assistance.
For model number JGD3430BS00
Hello Donna, thank you for reaching out. The drip tray you are looking for is part number PS2366890. It is sold individually. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and then rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!
Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reconnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!
This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
