This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This kit contains 4 grate feet for a range. These are the feet to fit your burner grates so the burner will not scratch your cooktop. The are black in color and made of rubber. These feet are fitted w...
This surface igniter provides reliable ignition by generating the heat needed to light the burner safely and efficiently. Proper ignition improves cooking performance and safety. Replacing a worn igni...
This is a 4-point re-ignition spark module. NOTE: This part has been redesigned by the manufacture, it may appear different but will still function the same.
Is your stove not heating evenly? You likely need a replacement for your burner base, and the Whirlpool BURNR-HEAD Surface Burner Base is here to help. It's a vital part of your range that ensures an ...
Are you experiencing uneven flames with your range? The Whirlpool Right Front Surface Burner Head is the solution you need. This is a genuine Whirlpool part that's been meticulously designed to make y...
$80.91
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This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact. If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.
Since the problem would only occur when the right front burner was on, I first replaced the ignitor, but the problem persisted. To replace the spark module I had to pull the range out of the nook it is in in the counter top. Then (after ensuring that the power was off) I removed the back cover. The spark module was easily located and removing two screws and disconnecting a few wires liberated it. The new one went in easily since it is the same part number and an exact match. Put the back on and check that the problem was solved. Done!
Removed the small access cover on the bottom of the cooktop by reaching inside and under the cabinets. Removed the module which was held by two hex head screws, unplugged the wires noting the location and color of the wires. Plugged the wires into the new module in the proper locations as noted previously. Attached the module with two screws, and then attached the cover/access plate with two screws. Problem resolved, repair was easy.
