JGBP85WEB1WW General Electric Range - Overview
Sections of the JGBP85WEB1WW
[Viewing 5 of 5]Manuals & Care Guides for JGBP85WEB1WW
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
$19.10
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Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS6447646
Manufacturer #: WB48T10095
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. T...
$90.54
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Liquid Propane Orifice Spud
PartSelect #: PS240683
Manufacturer #: WB28K10023
This orifice spud changes the burner from natural gas to liquid propane. This orifice is sold individually. Size: .89MM
$25.31
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Top Electrode Mounting Clip
PartSelect #: PS3510420
Manufacturer #: WB01K10112
This Genuine OEM GE Electrode Clip is a precision-engineered component designed for use across a wide range of gas ranges. Constructed from durable metal, the clip plays a critical role in securing th...
$18.04
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Switch
PartSelect #: PS1765837
Manufacturer #: WB24T10147
This light switch is controlled by opening and closing the oven door
$39.71
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Burner Cap - Medium
PartSelect #: PS241263
Manufacturer #: WB29K10004
This part is the replacement burner cap for your gas range. It is made of gray plastic and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. It has 3 small tabs on the bottom, with one tab that is larger than th...
$66.50
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Orifice Spud - LP - Right Rear
PartSelect #: PS240691
Manufacturer #: WB28K10031
This orifice spud helps convert the right rear burner of compatible GE stoves from natural gas to liquid propane. It ensures proper gas flow and efficient burner performance. Installation should be do...
$45.61
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Top Burner Electrode
PartSelect #: PS231266
Manufacturer #: WB13K10003
Also known as Spark Electrode.
No Longer Available
Cooktop Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS221937
Manufacturer #: WB01K10008
This is a replacement cooktop mounting screw, used to secure the burner. If you are missing that screw on your range, this is the part to replace it. This screw is about a half an inch in length and i...
$13.95
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Double Porcelain Pan - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS244909
Manufacturer #: WB34K10013
Here's a simple solution for keeping your GE stove clean and cooking with confidence ? our genuine GE Double Porcelain Pan. This trusty little helper is designed to fit perfectly on the right side of ...
$424.14
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Questions And Answers for JGBP85WEB1WW
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Common Symptoms of the JGBP85WEB1WW
[Viewing 5 of 5]Will Not Start
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Gas smell
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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Convection oven fan and door light not working
The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)
Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.
Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two hex head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.
Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.
Parts Used:
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Michael from Albuquerque, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
18 of 22 people
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Damaged both front burner tubes.
While i was inserting the new lp,gas orriface to the right rear burner tube I dropped the oriface.Without looking i popped the top of the burner unit, like most older type stoves, and thats when i ran into my problem. I realized the burner tube assemblies are attached by 3 screws to the top cover.Not attached to the cabinet as the older models, Basically cracked both front aluminum tubes trying to retrieve the dropped oriface. so i had to replace the burner tube units, which involved removing 3 screws, and loosing up and removal of the nut to the main gas tube. extremely easy repair, next time i`ll try to remember look before i leap,total time to (r+r)burner tubes about 20 minutes.Parts select pulled me out of the fire on this one, great staff and service, with quick delivery.
Parts Used:
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william from Tampa, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
15 of 15 people
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Range Top Burners would not ignite
Here's how I fixed my problem.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
I took the aluminum cover, the part that sits over the jet & the igniter, which simply comes off. It's the part that the igniter discharges to. I took this cover off & using a pencil I scratched the lead of the pencil into the area
which is around the igniter. I made sure to cover the area with as much lead as I could get on it. You need to make sure that you do this to all four burners. The only care you need to take, is not to block the gas jet which is in the igniter recess. It's been about 3 weeks since I added this & the burners click loudly & have lit without a problem. It appears that the aluminum may develop a coating on it of some kind which is highly resistive.
Parts Used:
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Kevin from Monroe, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
17 of 24 people
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