JES739WD - Instructions

After watching a few youtube videos, I used a phillips SD to take controll pannel off to access the switches that sense when microwave door is closed. Swapped out all 3 switched and mocrowave works like new. $20 fix (shipping included)

My 8 year old daughter cleaned the inside of the microwave with enough water to rival a tsunami. Resulted in a clean microwave with a fried out motor that no longer revolved. Part came quickly. Took cover and bottom off to get to the part. One screw held it on and a plug. Removed those, put on new part and she was good to go. No trip to home depot today.

Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover
and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!

First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.

The most difficult thing was removing the star security screws Both Home Depot and Lowes have tools to do this. The repair was a piece of cake, may have taken 15 min. Unplug 120v, remove case, bulb, replace and reassemble. GE doesn't want consumers fooling around inside the case, so be careful.

I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.

-Keith Packard

None of the manuals or schematic diagrams gave a clue as to where the damn bulb was and messing around in the guts of a microwave is not for the faint of heart. Once I found it the rest was easy -- take out the old bulb and put in the new one. Be careful reassembling the case -- microwave leakage is not good.

Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.

Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.

This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.

One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.

Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.

Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.

All is well and working.

Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.

Fun and easy fix for my kids.

The countdown timer was working but no "cooking" happening. Did not hear the familiar sound of the heating part working.

Determined it might be some simple switches for under $15 dollars. Bought one of each. They allow the microwave to turn on/activate by signaling that the door is properly latched. My wife noticed that it was failing and then failed over the course of about a day. Several times where it worked, then did not work. The timer was counting down one time and then when she opened the door the microwave heating component turned on. Guess it had activated the switch as she was opening the door.

Procedure to repair
- Unplug
- Remove two screws on front top - allows you to remove the vent. Realized there was a charcoal filter there that I had never replaced so ordered that after the fix.
- Remove two screws to pull off the front right panel (area where your microwave buttons are) One at the top under the before mentioned vent and one under the microwave on the far right corner.
- Have someone hold the panel because wiring is to short to place it on a ledge while connected or take a picture and remove connections. I simply held it while my daughter undid the micro switches.
- Carefully remove micro switches. There were two "orange" button ones so I chose the top one to replace along with the green button one that I had ordered, so I simply pulled an orange from the bottom and a green from the top latch area. You may have remove the part that holds the switches since it was a little tough with the wires in the way and not knowing how the switches stay put.
- plug in new switches and place in the brackets that hold them in place
- reverse everything you did.
Viola - a working microwave vs purchasing a brand new for several hundred dollars or having to call in a technician.I love that my young kids did this project with me and we actually got it running. Don't like to have to throw away more items at the landfill.

Semi-Handy Man

tested all 3 of the door switche for continuity, the top switch was faulty, replaced it,for approx $4.00 and saved a $350 dollar microwave.

I decided the door switch was the problem because 2 problems happened at the same time. I removed the 4 screws for the top outside cover and the 1 screw that held the control board. After removing the control board screw, I lifted it up and removed it. This gave me access to the 3 door switches. I then removed the 2 screws that held the plastic piece that holds the switches. This made it easier then to replace the switches.

First remove all screws holding on outer metal casing of microwave. Next remove the back and bottom metal pieces. You will then be able to pull aside the outer casing so you can access the door switches. Check each switch with an ohm meter in both the open position and with the switch closed. If the ohm meter reads the same in both the open and closed position, the switch is bad. Check the top switch first. Replace switch and reassemble. Cheap fix for a costly microwave. Great customer service at Parts Select!

Pretty simple but required buying a set of security bits (#68549) from Harbor Freight for $7.00 to remove the outer cover of my GE JES2051SNSS microwave. At first glance I thought the cover would remove by going towards the front of the microwave, but it ended up just needing a tug to the rear. I like this site because they have pictures of the exploded appliances that show what your getting into.

Note: also had to replace turntable. Removed top cover using secure driver set. Placed microwave on it's front, using a soft towel. Removed edge screws from bottom plate (leaving 4 screws in center attached to heavy transformer). Separated bottom plate from body of microwave (leaving transformer wires still attached) exposing Synchronous motor. Removed two screws holding motor and electrical plug. Swapped new motor in its place. Re-attached bottom plate with its screws. Placed microwave onto it normal position. Re-attached top cover with its secure screws. Installed new turntable inside.