Models > JCS968BF6BB

JCS968BF6BB General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the JCS968BF6BB

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Meat Probe Thermistor – Part Number: WB20T10024
Meat Probe Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS1481046
Manufacturer #: WB20T10024
This probe is used to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure proper temperature is reached. Also known as a Meat Probe.
$75.73
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Convection Element – Part Number: WB44T10053
Convection Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS956151
Manufacturer #: WB44T10053
$100.18
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REAR SUPPORT – Part Number: WB02X33180
REAR SUPPORT
PartSelect #: PS12709839
Manufacturer #: WB02X33180
This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
  No Longer Available
Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$29.88
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RANGE HALOGEN BULB KIT – Part Number: WB49X29679
RANGE HALOGEN BULB KIT
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS12342510
Manufacturer #: WB49X29679
This light bulb is used in the interior oven. NOTE: This bulb has looped pins, not the straight pins.
  No Longer Available
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB23T10015
Oven Sensor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
PartSelect #: PS236398
Manufacturer #: WB23T10015
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$59.44
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Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
Infinite Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS1016429
Manufacturer #: WB24T10119
$171.21
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$201.60
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Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
Dual Burner Control Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS236785
Manufacturer #: WB24T10063
This switch controls the dual burner.
$220.64
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Front Drawer Support – Part Number: WB48T10013
Front Drawer Support
PartSelect #: PS249583
Manufacturer #: WB48T10013
$10.28
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Screw – Part Number: WB1K5157
Screw
PartSelect #: PS234226
Manufacturer #: WB1K5157
This screw is black in color and sold individually.
$11.18
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Control Knob – Part Number: WB03T10078
Control Knob
PartSelect #: PS226412
Manufacturer #: WB03T10078
Sold individually.
$44.31
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Questions And Answers for JCS968BF6BB

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Common Symptoms of the JCS968BF6BB

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Door won’t close
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
100 of 113 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
55 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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terminal block melted
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
53 of 67 people found this instruction helpful.
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