This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficien...
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
Upgrade your oven’s cooking performance with this sturdy metal rack, designed to fit select gas ranges and ovens. Measuring approximately 23.75 inches long by 16.25 inches wide, it offers a spacious a...
Need a solution for a jittery drawer in your General Electric Range/Stove/Oven? The Genuine Replacement Drawer Glide is the answer. It keeps your broil or storage drawer sliding smoothly on your range...
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David
July 27, 2025
I need a bottom heating oven element .
For model number JCBP240DT2WW
Hello David, thank you for getting in touch. The bottom heating element, part number PS956141, is compatible with your model number. We hope this helps.
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
I removed the rear cover from the stove then removed the knob and two screws on the front panel that hold the control in place. I then took the wires off the old control one at a time and placed them on the new control. Then I placed the control in position and tightened the two screws on the front panel, replaced the knob and screwed the back panel in place.
