JBSS42E22L00 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I tested the ice maker "switch" that actually just covers the beam that regulates the ice maker. In the "off" position, it still made ice. Then, I removed the three screws on the cover over the transmitter and disconnected the circuit board at the wire connector. It stopped. After ordering and receiving the new transmitter and receiver boards, I replaced both boards. They are located on either side of the freezer compartment under panels held in place by three screws. Probably saved 150 to 200 bucks.

Purchased new motor from Partselect.com. When it arrived it came with a new rubber washer that fitted on top of new motor that was not on old motor, that how water got into old motor. However, the instruction sheet did not give info on how to access the proper way to the motor that is the door. Not wanting to damage the freezer door assy. called in a tech who made it look easy, but even he had a little problem locating access panel that was directly under the motor in the freezer side of the door. After that it was a piece of cake.

I first removed the power cord of the refrigerator from the receptacle. I then removed the screws (3 each) from both the emitter and receiver face plates with a phillips screw driver. I than carefully removed the connector to the each of the circuit boards. A simple pull maneuver. I removed the circuit boards from the face plates. I took the new parts and put them back in reverse order. I put the power cord back in the receptacle.

While looking for parts I read the advice on you web site under the ice maker parts. I also had problems reading the LED codes. They would change each time I unplugged the refrig and powered up. I took the other guys advice, ordered the emittered and receiver and the next morning I had ice. GREAT service guys, thanks. Also the part was on my door step in 1.5 days. Sure beat an expensive service charge.

I used a flat screwdriver and released the lock tab on the bottom of the light switch, and pried the switch out, being careful to not damage the plastic around the mounting place of the switch, unplugged wiring from old switch, plugged in the new one and pushed the new switch into place. Job finished light switch now working.

If you remove the bottom vent panel of the refrigerator there are two schematics for the refrigerator. One for the fridge and one for the icemaker. The icemaker has an emitter and a receiver that will tell the icemaker when it is ok to dump ice and add water. The receiver has an LED that blinks different codes. The codes give you an idea where your problem is located. In my case it coded out to be the optics (emitter and receiver). Replacement of the parts involves the removal of three screws on each component and disconnecting a wire harness on each component. Install the new components by following the removal process in reverse. The total cost was $80.00. This was half the price Sears wanted for the parts and about the same price to have a Sears repairman just show up at the house.

Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done

Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG

I looked at some online diagnostics info and the owner's manual. The "error code" blinking red light on the receiver unit (located adjacent to the ice bucket) indicated that the emitter/receiver units were faulty. I located the parts on the PartSelect website (their price was less than half of what they wanted on the Sears website) and ordered them. I didn't pay for the expedited shipping and still received the parts within two days of ordering. Powered down the refrigerator, three simple screws to remove each cover for the emitter and receiver, unplug the old units and pop in the new units, replace the covers for each unit, repowered the fridge and, voila, you've got ice. I completed the repairs in less than 10 minutes. Couldn't be happier with the price, the diagnostics links/info or the prompt service. Next time I have an appliance issue, my first stop will be this website.

Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.

Taped plastic cover to get it out of the way with duct tape - removed three screws on each side - removed retaining screw for each module - carefully disengaged module using small flat head screw driver being sure to release the plastic retainer and then reverse the process. Be sure new modules snap into place.

Biggest problem was initially figuring out what the problem was. Turning off the ice maker had no effect and it just kept making ice.

Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.