The bake element is located on the bottom of the oven. If your oven will not heat properly it may be due to a faulty or damaged baking element. If you can see that the element has been separated or bl...
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficien...
This burner drip bowl is designed to sit beneath the cooktop burner, catching food particles and spills during cooking to protect the burner and surface below. With a sleek chrome finish, it offers a ...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
If your oven isn’t getting hot enough when you broil, this replacement broil element could be the fix. It’s the part that heats from the top of the oven to give food that crispy finish. Easy to instal...
The electronic oven control board manages heating and temperature functions in wall ovens. Modified wiring may require professional installation. Unplug the oven or shut off the circuit breaker before replacing.
Having trouble with your wobbly GE range? Our adjustable leveling leg is the simple solution you've been looking for. When your range isn't sitting perfectly even, it can lead to a host of issues from...
Upgrade your oven’s cooking performance with this sturdy metal rack, designed to fit select gas ranges and ovens. Measuring approximately 23.75 inches long by 16.25 inches wide, it offers a spacious a...
Need a solution for a jittery drawer in your General Electric Range/Stove/Oven? The Genuine Replacement Drawer Glide is the answer. It keeps your broil or storage drawer sliding smoothly on your range...
$13.95
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First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
1)Turn off power to stove 2)remove 2 bolts holding heating element 3)pull element out of the back of the oven about 8" so that the wire connects is visable 4)pull wire clips off of heating element and remove element from the oven 5)put wire clips on the new heating element 6)push new heating element back into the holes in the back of the oven 7)screw botls back into the oven holding the heating element in place 8)Turn power back on
