This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
The 8-inch surface element switch is also known as an infinite heat switch, and is a part for your range. It controls the large surface element. It will turn the element on and off, and allow you to c...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace the temperature sensor...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
This genuine GE drawer support is an original replacement part sourced from the manufacturer and is designed for use with electric ranges. Made of durable plastic, it attaches to the rear of the drawe...
The electronic oven control board manages heating and temperature functions in wall ovens. Modified wiring may require professional installation. Unplug the oven or shut off the circuit breaker before replacing.
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
Looking to fix your range drawer? You're in the right place. First things first, the GE Front Drawer Support is the key to maintaining stability'and without it, your range drawer might wobble or becom...
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Remove nobs from both switches. Pull out the range (the hardest part). REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE WALL Remove 7 screws with nut driver and take off upper back panel. Remove 2 phillips screws from front, they hold the switch brackets. The new switches don't fit in the bracket so discard the bracket keeping the screws. Removing 1 wire at a time from the old switch transfer to the new noting the letter/number ie "H1 P1" combos they are all there just not in the same places on the new switch. When wiring is complete, using the bracket ,screws from the front screw on the switches. Replace the back panel with 7 screws. In my case the old nobs did not fit the shafts of the new switches. I found some at the local hardware store. I bought 4 for $0.29 each! I expect to be replacing the other burner switches shortly.
After removing the back of the range the oven control board was visible and accessible by removing four nuts. There was some resistance removing the leads from the oven coils and light-bulb mechanisms but with some leverage and pliers they came loose. The only challenge was the face plate of the unit is attached using adhesive and needed to be carefully peeled off and added to the new oven control board. Getting this right was just a matter of taking time and lining up the components correctly. After applying the face, the new control board went right in. I reattached the back, plugged the unit back in, and the over has worked great for the past week. Part select being able to identify the part numbers listed from the component likely saved me at least $100 of having a GE certified repair technician come in.
