If your microwave button isn’t working, this silver push button might be the fix. It’s the part you press to control settings, and it connects to the switch inside. It fits many models and replaces ol...
This part is the replacement halogen light bulb for your range. The bulb is 10 watts and 12 volts. The halogen lamp lights up the inside of the oven you can see the cooktop more effectively in darknes...
You need this genuine Whirlpool Microwave Inlet Cover to keep your microwave running at its best. It's also known as a waveguide cover. What does it do? It protects the waveguide channel, which is cri...
Having issues with your Whirlpool microwave? It might be the Inlet Cover. This small part plays a big role and shields the waveguide channel in your microwave from debris and food splatters. Keeping i...
Are you tired of unevenly heated meals from your microwave? The Whirlpool Turntable Motor is the solution you need. This genuine OEM part is crucial for your microwave's performance, with its main rol...
This small but important switch helps keep your microwave safe by making sure it won’t run unless the door is properly closed. It tells the microwave’s control system whether the door is open or shut,...
Is your microwave not working like it used to? Would you love to get back the convenience of evenly heated meals in no time? Our OEM Whirlpool Glass Turntable is the solution you need. This is a genui...
I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.
When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.
All seems to be working well now.
Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?
First - Be certain to order both button and button holder, in same order (I ordered separately, after realizing I would need both, since interlocking, paid 2 delivery charges) Turn off breaker, unscrew from cabinet, pull out far enough to access 4 tiny star screws (2 each side) line up button and insert into holder, push into hole in glass. Sensor clicks into button holder. Look at other buttons to see alignment. Screw back together
IMPORTANT: DO NOT TOUCH THE REPLACEMENT LAMP WITHOUT WEARING CLEAN GLOVES. FILM OR FINGER PRINTS ON THE LAMP GLASS WILL CAUSE PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE LAMP.
Remove the 4 screws on right and left mounting rails that hold the unit to the kitchen cabinet. Remove the oven door Remove the chrome oven vent strip below the oven door. This allows a pry point beneath the combo microwave oven assembly to lift up the unit while pulling it out. (Assembly weighs 250 pounds) Pull the unit out from the cabinet housing about 2-3 inches to reveal the right and left sides and the 4 screws holding the the control panel. Remove the 4 control panel screws and pull off the face of the control panel Remove the 2 harness connectors and the ground wire holding the control panel to the unit. Unclip the circuit board above the lamp connector and slide it back out of the way. The lamp is now accessible. Remove the lamp spring holding the lamp to the cabinet. Remove the old lamp Install the new lamp using clean gloves Reassemble in reverse order.
