The SmartWater MWF Filter is a new and improved filter that replaces the obsolete GWF filter. The MWF Cartridge reduces more contaminants, and is easier to install.
NOTE: If you are replacing the ...
This board controls the operation of the unit.
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a fil...
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Questions And Answers for HSS25GFTAWW
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Gary
December 14, 2021
Frig light works, control panel on freezer door nothing works at all unlock button doesn't work either I unplugged frig and plugged back in and light only works frig not working and control panel doesn't work
For model number HSS25GFTAWW
Hello Gary, Thank you for the question. This is normally an indication the Control Board, PartSelect Number PS1155333 is defective and may need to be replaced. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Gary
April 10, 2024
Seems no auto deftost. Manual DF x2 past 2 months. Guessing DF timer integrated in Mother board. After manual DF temps normal temps stabalize within 3 hrs. 23 ohms but, never calls for DF htr, no 120vac at orange to blue. Please advise. Thank you.
For model number HSS25GFTAWW
Hello Gary, thank you for reaching out. Yes, the main control board controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. But before replacing it, we would recommend checking the defrost thermostat, part number PS1017716. Good luck with your repair!
Fridge not cooling. Unplugged and cleaned condenser coils. At that time the compressor was pretty warm to the touch. Left unplugged overnight an had a pool of water next day.
Now when I plug refrigerator in I hear the solenoid on water supply line buzz/operate, then a click at the main motherboard, but don't hear compressor running and condenser fan is not turning. Sounds like evaporator fan come on when plugged in.
Does this help with figuring out what I need to repair unit?
For model number HSS25GFTAWW
Hello Mark, thank you for contacting us. According to our research on model number HSS25GFTAWW, the problem appears to be with the run capacitor, part number PS11764031, and with the condenser fan motor, part number PS1766247. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature. When the compressor runs, so does this condenser fan, circulating air through the refrigerator grille, cooling the compressor and condenser coils. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair!
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David
December 14, 2019
Lot of ice build up inside freezer. Door seal is good (checked w/ultrasonic leak detector). Logged freezer and refrig temps. Appears to go thru defrost cycle about every 12 hours. Freezer temp drops from average -8 deg. F, to -20, then rises to around +57f in 40 minutes. Takes about 2:45 hours (from peak) to drop back to -10f.
For model number HSS25GFTAWW
Hi David, I would check the defrost thermostat. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
I replaced the light in the main section but still not working so i went to check the switch out but can not find it... the freezer section light works great and i can see the pusk switch at the bottom..but the life of me can not find the switch for the main section ... i have check all around the inside door and inside the main section an not find any push switch to make the light go of and on. can you tell me where it is located... so i can check to see if needs to be replaced
For model number HSS25GFTAWW
Hi Mac, thank you for your question. This would be the switch for your fridge section: PS11726956. It is generally located at the top when you open up your door there. Good luck with your repair.
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The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.