This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the...
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping...
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
This ice dispenser door flap, also known as a damper door, is designed to seal the ice chute in compatible refrigerator models, preventing warm air from entering the freezer compartment. Constructed f...
$29.12
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Questions And Answers for GZS22IMNPHES
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Carmen
March 3, 2024
How can I replace the light bulb in the back of the Freezer is out
For model number GZS22IMNPHES
Hello Carmen, thank you for your question. The light Module/Board is PS11767930. We have on our site a testimonial from a previous customer that posted their repair instructions. "Unplugged the fridge, and opened the freezer. Unscrewed the light panel, small screwdriver. Removed the plastic bracket. Part was frozen and I broke one of the plastic mounts. Do not do this as I am not sure if I will have to live with my cable twist tie kludge or I can get another plastic bracket. Light board is just the PCB. You need to remove the old PCB and install the new one- remember the orientation and the fact that the plastic mount piece has specific sides you can identify by the width of the slots." We hope this helps.
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I read in a previous post how to do the job from outside fridge which saved me lots of time. No need to remove inner door lining. Here is my procedure: 1.Turned off power. 2.Snapped off outside trim ring. 3.Located three small holes inside lip just above ice tube. The center hole was not used. 4.Pushed rather firmly up through two remaining holes with small Allen wrench to release front control panel. 5.Removed (3) wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out as lifting on retaining clip will break it off. I broke one & had to elect. tape it back in place later although I doubt it would have ever come off. 6.Release secondary panel by removing (4) screws. The problem was obvious as the solenoid had broken the crank arm off the flapper rod & trapped it open 7.Replaced solenoid, crank arm with flapper attached, spring & micro switch. Switch was okay but I changed anyway. 8.Cleaned all areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. 9.Re-installed evrything in reverse order & all is okay. Thanks to someone for telling about those two small holes. Made job easy versus a very hard one.
