This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven. his bake element is for ranges.
The bake element is at the bottom of the oven and supplies the heat for baking.
Unplug the range or shut off...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
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Paul
March 6, 2023
Oven Light burned out, replaced with 40 wt appliance bulb, restored power, Light doesn't work . Tested bulb in lamp. selected oven light and other buttons, opened and closed the door, checked power to the oven light socket. I did work at removing the base of the broken bulb from the socket and might have fouled up the socket. What else might be the problem?
For model number GY397LXUB03
Hello Paul, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, we would recommend checking that the light bulb is replaced correctly. If the issue still occurs, you may need to check the light bulb, part number PS884734, and light socket, part number PS11744525. We hope this helps!
Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
First turn off circuit breaker to stove. Slide the stove out about 4 inches from the counter to expose the two phillips head screws, one on the left side and one on the right side of touch panel. Take out screws. Then take out four Phillip head screws on the bottom side of panel, this will set panel loose from stove. Carefully pull up touch pad (switch membrane) from control panel; it is sticky glued in place. Disconnect ribbon cables on switch membrane from control panel by depressing cable locks while pulling firmly. Remove switch membrane. Clean area before installing new membrane. Reassemble turn on power and you are done.
