This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This surface element is for ranges.
The surface element supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before insta...
The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
Sold individually. This knob accepts a double-flat shaft.
$35.64
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GY396LXGB5
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Walter
March 15, 2022
Oven (bake) heats up slowly and the heat cycles on and off about every 30 seconds. Brawler heats up faster but with both the desired temp is 80 degrees more than the actual temp. I raised the temp calibration 30 degrees but that is not enough help. Should i test the element, temp sensor and or thermostat ? Thankyou for any help.
For model number GY396LXGB5
Hi Walter,
Thank you for your question. If the oven is not heating correctly, the issue may be with the oven sensor. The oven temperature sensor is the part that monitors the oven temperature and signals the electronic control board to turn the elements on and off. Before removing this part from the oven and testing it with a multimeter for continuity, unplug the oven from the electrical outlet. A normal reading should be 1100 ohms, but as readings vary from model to model, you will need to reference your owner’s manual to determine what the correct reading should be. To test it for continuity, use a multimeter on the Rx1 setting and touch the terminals with the probes. This test needs to be done with the sensor at room temperature to produce accurate results. If your test results do not meet the manufacturer’s guidelines, you need a replacement temperature sensor. If the sensor is fine, you will need to check the elements, the electronic control board and the wiring between the parts to see which one is causing the issue. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
I removed the oven door by lifting it off with the hinges. Disassembled the door parts one at time making sure I remember where I removed the screws until I am able to get to the broken glass. The most difficult part is making sure that the insulation strip & the gasket stayed in place after I replaced the broken glass & doing the reverse process of installing the parts together. Relatively easy process as long as you remember where the parts go. When in doubt, I had to refer to the pictorial of the disassembled door shown on your website.
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
Turn off the power to the Electric Oven. Remove the 2 screws to the oven top at the front of the stove. Lift the oven top up. Have someone hold it for you. Label the wires that go to the element you are going to replace. Disconnect the wires from the Element. Remove the screw from the bracket that holds the front and rear element in place. It is located at the back of the bracket behind the rear element and you will need small phillips head screw driver. Remove the bad element.. Unscrew the two pointed bracket holder pieces from the old element and screw them into the new element in the same location as the old. Put the new element back into the bracket and put the bracket mount screw back in. Attach the wires back to the new element. Close the oven top. Install the oven top screws at the front of the stove. Turn the power back on and test the element.
