GUAP240EM0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

It was actually my father, he doesn't use the internet. He thought that because the dyer got real hot and then shut off he thought the thermostat wasn't working and the high temp shutoff was okay. He went through the manual and found the part and took it out. He called the service number but they wanted $50 dollars plus shipping. I saw it was a Thermo-disc part so I tried the manufacture's website but I couldn't match the numbers on the back to their part numbers. I tried several other sites and your site was the cheapest. It was real easy to use the web site and diagrams to find the right schematic and part. I ordered it online and it was delivered in 2 days with the regular shipping. When he first put it in the dyer didn't turn on. He found no power coming out of the timer so he cleaned the contacts and it worked. Thanks for making the ordering so easy.

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.

The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.

Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.

Replaced cycle thermostat.

I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.

Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.

Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.

I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!

I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.

So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.

The easiest way we found to install the speed sensor was to detach the motor from the washer by removing 2 hex bolts...one on the left and one on the right. This was much easier than other suggestions of removing the impeller itself and working in such a tight space. when placing the sensor on, it mounts to the back side of the motor in designated bracket area; the green face of the sensor must point downward and towards the impeller.
when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts.

Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.

Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

First I called to get help with the right part and they told me I needed the pus-to-start-switch. It came in and I called my handyman Ed to install it. I am happy with your service. I dont install but just got the part in.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.