GTH18IBMCRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the GTH18IBMCRCC
[Viewing 6 of 6]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
This evaporator fan grommet is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter.
$16.74
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
$19.10
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Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$17.70
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Snack Pan Slide - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306780
Manufacturer #: WR72X10055
This part is the replacement snack pan slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches by 2 inches. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail....
$49.38
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LIGHT SWITCH
PartSelect #: PS16554876
Manufacturer #: WR23X37285
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
No Longer Available
Snack Pan Slide - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS651938
Manufacturer #: WR72X10086
This snack pan slide rail, also known as a drawer slide rail, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This slide rail is white in color, and serves to help your snack pan slide in and...
$85.95
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Condenser Fans Blade Assembly
PartSelect #: PS1022410
Manufacturer #: WR60X10207
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
$24.05
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Vegetable Pan Slide - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS292021
Manufacturer #: WR17X10861
Let's solve your refrigerator issues with our Genuine GE Vegetable Pan Slide! This product is specially crafted for your fridge to secure and support your crisper drawer. It's designed to make sure th...
$161.98
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Vegetable Pan Slide - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS292022
Manufacturer #: WR17X10862
$161.98
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Lid Bumper
PartSelect #: PS284979
Manufacturer #: WR02X10540
The lid bumper or evaporator fan motor bumper in your refrigerator prevents the fan motor from scraping against the side bracket. If your refrigerator/freezer is noisy, the bumper could be worn down o...
$13.95
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Condenser Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS1017599
Manufacturer #: WR60X10170
This condenser fan motor is made for a refrigerator. The motor powers your fan to circulate air to the condenser coil. The condenser coil removes heat from the refrigerant gas. The motor base measures...
$85.95
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Questions And Answers for GTH18IBMCRCC
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Common Symptoms of the GTH18IBMCRCC
[Viewing 9 of 9]Noisy
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Clicking sound
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Frost buildup
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Door Sweating
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Freezer coils icing up, fridge too warm
Had to remove inside panels to expose coils in freezer. Used hair dryer and towels to de-ice. Reading online learned about defrost heater (long thin glass tube with wire coil in it I could not see b/c up under the inside of the coils). Who would have guessed freezers have heaters in them!! And learned the defrost timer (inside the fridge) is just a continuous clock turning on and off the defrost heater. Anyways I used a screwdriver to turn the timer to defrost mode and by disconnecting the wires from each end of the heater and measuring the voltage, I found 70 volts there. Hmmm. I didn't know what was the right volt amount.
Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer.
I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
PartSelect helped out great! Thanks!
Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer.
I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
PartSelect helped out great! Thanks!
Parts Used:
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Tim from West Palm Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
33 of 36 people
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The refrigirator light would not come on.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
Parts Used:
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Jania from Novato, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
26 of 42 people
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