This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This ice maker assembly is used to make ice in your refrigerator. The ice maker receives water from the water inlet valve and will freeze until ice cubes are formed. Once the water has been frozen the...
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a fil...
This twelve volt dispenser light bulb is a little under two inches long.
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Questions And Answers for GSH25JSXNSS
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7 questions answered by our experts.
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Chun
February 18, 2020
It’s not cold but fan is working. Can i reset it? How to reset? Thank you.
For model number GSH25JSXNSS
Hello and thank you for writing.
We suggest to try a hard reset:
Go to your breaker box and shut the breakers for your unit off, wait 5 minutes and then turn the breaker to on again. That should hopefully clear this problem.
If this does not fix this problem then your temperature sensor PS304103 or your defrost heater and/or possibly a malfunctioning PS303781might be faulty, you should check the part(s) for signs of damage or test with a multimeter, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Hi
I need the large freezer shelf for this side by side refrigerator/freezer.
Thanks
For model number GSH25JSXNSS
Hello Bill, thank you for getting in touch. The larger freezer shelf compatible with your model is part number PS305726. Its approximate dimensions are length: 14 3 /4 inches, width: 13 1/4 inches. Glad to be of assistance!
My power got knocked off by weather lights come on in refrigerator and freezer but it’s not getting cold ,also the light on the front to show the temp it’s not coming on now
For model number GSH25JSXNSS
Hi Ricky, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description, the issue is with the main control board, part number PS16729744. The control board controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. We would recommend checking the control board to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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Kent
August 8, 2025
Your part number on the board doesn’t match mine?
For model number GSH25JSXNSS
Hi Kent, thank you for reaching out. We sell OEM parts directly sourced from the manufacturer. The compatible control board for your model is part number PS16729744. We hope this information helps!
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Mahendra
November 24, 2022
Lots of time the water stop
For model number GSH25JSXNSS
Hello Mahendra, thank you for your question. If the water stops then the issue is probably with the Water Valve, part number PS16226572. If that does not take care of the issue, then the problem is most likely to be related to the Ice and Water Filter, part number PS8746144. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.