This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$27.33
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The EDR1RXD1 water filter uses advanced filtration technology to reduce over 20 types of contaminants, including pharmaceuticals, pesticides, and lead. Certified to meet NSF/ANSI standards, it deliver...
$49.99
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$15.95
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This twenty-five watt microwave light bulb is two and a half inches long. It has a small, screw-in base and it carries 120V. This item sells in a quantity of one, though many microwaves require two.
$21.68
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If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$47.08
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The fan blade is used to blow air over the condenser.
$83.60
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Questions And Answers for GSF26C5EXW02
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Danny
July 13, 2021
One of the lights at the top of my refrigerator blew and all other lights in the fridge & freeze instantly went off. The socket appeared to have shorted, so that was replaced. However, the lights continue not to work. I checked all other light sockets and none seem to be shorted. I already verified the door switch is working properly. The refrigerator, freezer, ice maker, water dispenser and exterior light all continue to work normally. What isn't working is all interior lights, the temperature sensors (allowing fridge to get colder than usual), ice dispenser, and ice maker sensor (doesn't shut-off ice maker when full). It seems as if a fuse blew for the electrical, but I don't see any literature that indicates my refrigerator has a fuse. Any idea of what to check next?
For model number GSF26C5EXW02
Hello Danny, Thank you for the question. The Fridge does not have a fuse. When the socket shorted out, it could have damaged the wiring. You may need to check all of the wiring, or have a repair man come test the wiring for you. We hope this helps!
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Nick
January 31, 2023
I have a Whirlpool Gold refrigerator (GSF26C5EXW02) that's almost 12 years old. I noticed the freezer changes from normal to warm and back to normal again. I replaced the capacitor (Part Number: WPW10662129) and defrost thermostat (Part Number: WPW10225581) and I'm still having the same issue. Both fans are working normal, but I did notice the condenser was running hot. Any idea what could be causing this issue? Thank you in advance for your help.
For model number GSF26C5EXW02
Hi Nick,
Thank you for your question. If your refrigerator temperature is fluctuating from normal to warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the damper control assembly, the main electronic control board, the dispenser control board, the condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. We have included some links from our website that you may reference on how to check these parts. Once you have determined the part you need, please call customer service. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hi Eric, thank you for reaching out. We believe your refrigerator is having this issue because of a faulty damper control assembly, part number PS11723079, and you may need to check and replace it if necessary. We hope this solves your problem!
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
1) removed the face plate that runs 3/4 way up the back of the freezer side. a total of 8 screws. (6") 2) disconnected the three electrical connections.(30sec) 3) removed the fan of the the old evaporator fan motor (5sec) 3) removed the fan motor (1") 4) put in the new fan motor (1") 5) put on the old fan on the new fan motor(5sec) 6) reconnected the three electrical connections (30sec) 7) replaced the face plate on the back of the freezer (6") Had re-frozen meat within 1 hour.
