This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
This genuine OEM screw is designed for use in refrigerators. It measures approximately ¾ of an inch in length.
$13.95
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Questions And Answers for GSE25HMHBHES
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13 questions answered by our experts.
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Shirley
December 22, 2022
The basket that HOLDS the ice has a hole in the bottom and ice falls out. Do you just make the basket/tray for this model? Thanks
For model number GSE25HMHBHES
Hi Shirley, thank you for reaching out. The ice dispenser bucket compatible with your model is part number PS1017147. If you require assistance to place an order, please contact customer service. We hope that helps!
Do you have defrost timer for this model and how much?
Thanks
Mark
For model number GSE25HMHBHES
Hi Mark,
Thank you for your question. There is no defrost timer listed for your refrigerator. The defrost functions would be handled by the main electronic control board. The part number listed under your model number for the main electronic control board is PS11701275. If you would like to place an order for it, please call our customer service line and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Roy
June 7, 2023
The top part of the refrigerator doesn’t get cold. The temp won’t lock in at 6 freezer and 37 refrigerator . The refrigerator stays on 55 and freezer 29.
For model number GSE25HMHBHES
Hi Roy, thank you for asking. You may need to check the electronic control board, part number PS11701275, to fix the issue. It manages the functions of the refrigerator, such as cooling and defrosting times. We hope this solves your problem!
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Rebecca
November 10, 2023
Door Alarm will not stop.
For model number GSE25HMHBHES
Hello Rebecca, thank you for the question. According to our research, this alarm will sound if either door is open for more than 3 minutes. We would recommend closing the door properly. If the issue still occurs, you may need to check the door switch, part number PS11737034, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
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Regina
December 7, 2023
What is the cubic feet of this refrigerator.
For model number GSE25HMHBHES
Hello Regina, thank you for the question. We have researched and found that the capacity of this refrigerator is 25.3 cubic feet. We hope this information helps!
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The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.