Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This part is a replacement fabric softener dispenser for your washer. If your washer will not dispense fabric softener or detergent, or will not agitate, you may need to replace the dispenser. When it...
This is a water pressure switch hose, also known as the air dome tube, for your washer. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The hose transports water to your water pressure switch, s...
$18.96
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Questions And Answers for GHWN4250D1WW
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Charles
January 30, 2020
All lights are blinking on front display. Machine will not respond
For model number GHWN4250D1WW
Hello Charles, thank you for your question. We would recommend unplugging then plugging back in the unit to see if it will reset. If it does not, and the blinking continues and the unit is non responsive, we would recommend replacing the board PartSelect Number: PS8757105. I hope this helps.
Water inlet valve(s) are leaking into the tub while machine is turned off
Which parts are necessary to repair and their part numbers
Is this a simple or difficult repair
For model number GHWN4250D1WW
Hello Buford, Thank you for writing. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS3652834 and maybe the Screws PartSelect Number PS269076. See below the repair listed as Easy 12-30 minutes.
1. Unplugged the washing machine.
2. Shut off both hot and cold water.
3. Removed water hoses from back of machine.
4. Removed three screws from back of control panel.
5. Pull back hose clamp between valve and flex hose to shower head.
6. Remove two electrical connections on valve.
7. Remove two screws that hold triple water valve to base.
8. Replace valve in reverse order above steps 7->1
Good luck with your repair!
I have good fill pressure into tub but the water stops when it gets about 1/4 of the way full. What is my problem?
For model number GHWN4250D1WW
Hello Paul, thank you for contacting us. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the pressure switch, part number PS2354068. The pressure switch senses and controls the water level in the washer. If it is faulty, replace it. If this does not solve your problem, the water inlet valve, part number PS3652834, is the culprit and needs to be replaced. We hope this solves your problem!
Regardless of water level control setting, washer fills to the same, low level. I have replaced the control valve but this did not fix the problem. I checked the integrity of the hose to the valve by disconnecting it from the tub and blowing into it. with very little "breath" pressure, I could tell that contacts transferred in the switch.
What else could cause the problem?
For model number GHWN4250D1WW
Hello Pete, Thank you for your inquiry. You can actually test the pressure switch with a multimeter to see if it is working properly. To test the Switch for resistance, disconnect the wires connected to the pressure switch by pulling the wire connectors off of the switch terminals. Set a multimeter to test for resistance (ohms). Touch each tester probe to one of the switch terminals. The tester should read 0 or close to 0 (indicating no resistance). The other issue could be the control board which controls the switch and you can check it for any visible damage or loose connections. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order for a part, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Clothes are still soaked after spin cycle has completed.
For model number GHWN4250D1WW
Hello Larry, thank you for contacting us. Please make sure the drain system is working. Provided that the drain is working the issue is caused by a slow spin. We would recommend checking the following parts: the drive belt, part number PS1482278, the drive pulley, part number PS1482349, the drive shaft assembly, part number PS3652839, and the drive motor, part number PS8259952. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!
