This is the replacement water valve for your washer. It has 2 inlets and 3 outlets. The water valve connects to the water source and solenoid wires, and ensures the tub has the right amount of water e...
If your washer won’t start or the door keeps popping open, the door lock might be the issue. This part keeps the door securely closed during cycles so everything runs safely and smoothly. It’s easy to...
This stacking kit allows a washer and dryer to be securely installed in a vertical configuration, saving valuable floor space. Designed for stability and proper alignment, it helps prevent movement an...
Facing trouble with your dryer settings due to a worn-out knob? The GE Control Knob is exactly what you require. This is not just any part; it's a vital element for your GE dryer that aids you in regu...
This part is the replacement door plunger or door strike for your washer. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 2 inches by 1.5 inches. The door strike attaches to the washer door and activ...
This washer belt helps the drum spin by connecting the motor to the drive system. If your washer isn’t spinning, makes strange noises, or smells like something’s burning, the belt might need replacing...
$169.41
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I called a repair person to check my 15 months old GE front loader washer that stopped in rinse mode. After his inspection he said it was a deffected computer board and it would be very expensive to replace the 3 computers boards inside and it would be cheaper to buy a new top loader washer. The next day I lifted the top cover and found a taped plastic envelope with instructions titled “For service Technicians Only." On page 2, instruction on to how to enter the washer in to service mode and to test the washer: Press : Signal, Delay, Signal, Delay (within 30 seconds of plug in washer) Then rotate main knob to #102 and press Start:(the washer did a test for finding the problem) , and for me was : E22 , it means : replace solenoid valve assembly. So I order the part from Partselect.com for $58.00 and my Washer runs beautiful, thanks to the instructions inside.
Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts. Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.
Removed three 7mm sheet metal screws from the bottom front panel. The drain pump is in the front right. Removed the manual drain screen to drain residual water from the system. A bucket was necessary to collect all the water. Disconnected the inlet and outlet hose. Disconnected the electric supply. Removed two Phillips screws holding the pump to the bottom of the machine. Slid the pump towards the rear to clear the support pegs and removed it from the front opening. Installation is the reverse of those steps.
