This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. The crisper draw will slide in and out along this rail. If the rail is damaged or missing, the crisper will either hang from one s...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This is a replacement evaporator fan grommet for your refrigerator. The fan grommet absorbs the vibration from the evaporator fan motor for quiet operation while it runs. If your evaporator fan is unu...
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$16.70
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Questions And Answers for GFSF2HCYCBB
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Dylan
November 26, 2019
My freezer is cold but fridge is not. What do I need to replace?
For model number GFSF2HCYCBB
Hello Dylan, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the fan in the freezer to ensure it is working properly to circulate the the cold air to the Fridge. Also check the Damper Assembly for a blockage or to see if it is frozen closed and not allowing the cold air through. Hope this helps!
Hello Kenny, thank you for your inquiry. We are led to believe that perhaps a tube has a hole in it, causing the leaking inside the freezer. It may also be an issue with the water inlet valve, ice maker assembly or the drain tube. You will need to check these parts over accordingly to see which of these parts may have failed. We hope this helps.
I can not find my book with the information. How is the cover removed on the interior light?
For model number GFSF2HCYCBB
Hi Alicia, thank you for your question. According to our research to remove the cover first unplug the refrigerator, grasp the cover at the back and pull out to release the tabs at the back. Rotate the cover down and then forward to release the tabs at the front of the cover. After replacing with an appliance bulb of the same or lower wattage, replace the cover back again. Good luck with your repair.
Hello Jeffrey, thank you for reaching out. First, make sure that the ice bin is positioned correctly and clean the ice maker, as frost or ice can build up inside the ice maker or on crucial parts like the feeler arm. If this is not the issue, reset your ice maker. If this does not help, you will need to inspect the following parts: the water inlet valve, part number PS2340443, the ice maker assembly, part number PS1993870, and the control board, part number PS2371164. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
The ice maker water doesn't stop filling the ice tray is there a float over something that can be replaced
For model number GFSF2HCYCBB
Hi Jeffrey, thank you for reaching out. The following parts need to be checked to fix the issue: Water Inlet Valve, part number PS2340443, Ice Maker, part number PS1993870, and Ice Maker Fill Tube, part number PS3487825. We hope this information helps! If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Thanks again for your great question.
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-help sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)
The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.
In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.