This NSF-certified refrigerator water filter is engineered to improve the taste, clarity, and safety of your drinking water by reducing contaminants such as mercury, lead, and trace pharmaceuticals. D...
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This is a door handle fastener to secure the handle to your refrigerator drawer. It is also known and a mounting bolt or screw. It is approximately 1 inch in total length, and is made of metal.
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The Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor is an OEM replacement part for some GE refrigerators. It is responsible for circulating air over the evaporator coils, which are responsible for cooling the refri...
This door shelf bin is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. It is designed for use in your GE refrigerator. It is made of white and clear plastic, and houses items on your ref...
Get your GE refrigerator back to its peak performance with our GE Water Inlet Valve Assembly. This essential part is your solution to continuous functionality of your ice maker and water dispenser. It...
This LED light and cover assembly is designed for the fresh food compartment of compatible refrigerators, providing bright, energy-efficient illumination to help you easily see and access stored items...
Keep your refrigerator’s crisper drawer in top condition with this replacement vegetable pan glass. It offers a clear, durable surface for storing fruits and vegetables, and fits securely above the dr...
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Questions And Answers for GFE29HMDAES
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Don
November 30, 2021
I have bottom ice maker working top has no water to dispenser or ice maker do i need pump if so witch one it looks like there is 2
For model number GFE29HMDAES
Hi Don,
Thank you for your question. If you are getting no water to either the dispenser or to the ice maker, check the water lines to see if they are clogged or frozen. If they are you will need to defrost the refrigerator. If the water filter has not been changed in the last 6 months, it may be clogged and will need to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the water filter every 6 months. If the water filter is fine, then you will need to test the water inlet valves for continuity with a multimeter. Set your multimeter the Rx1 setting and touch the terminals with the probes. A functional water inlet valve should put off a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. If you receive any other reading, you will need a replacement water inlet valve. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
