This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
This kit includes the lower and middle spray arms. Water is forced through this spray arm by the unit's pump and motor assembly. The force of the water propels the spray arms, spraying water and deter...
This dishwasher tub gasket creates a watertight seal between the tub and door to prevent leaks and maintain efficient performance. Made from durable rubber, it fits into the tub’s channel and is easy ...
Are you grappling with a faulty GE dishwasher? Maybe the lower rack just won't stay put? Let's help you put an end to that stress. Our GE Lower Rack Clip might just be what you've been searching for. ...
Meet the GE FDT Coated Lower Dishrack - your dishwasher's new best friend. Its job is simple but vital. It separates and supports your dishes within the rack, making sure each dish gets a thorough cle...
This diverter valve assembly controls water flow between the upper and lower spray arms in compatible dishwashers, ensuring efficient cleaning during each cycle. Located inside the appliance, it direc...
This drain pump kit is designed to remove dirty water from your dishwasher during and at the end of each wash cycle. If you’re noticing standing water after a cycle or leaks beneath the appliance, the...
The lower rack roller supports the smooth sliding of your dishwasher’s bottom rack. Measuring 1.5 inches in diameter and charcoal-colored, this OEM replacement part is sold individually. Replace all f...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Michael
February 1, 2025
How can I first determine if the issue is the controller board or the user interface? My unit has no power, I want to identify the correct problem part.
Thank you
For model number GDT655SMJ4ES
Hi Michael, thank you for the question. To determine if the issue is with the main control board or the user interface when your unit has no power, check for any lights or visual indicators on the user interface first; if there are no lights at all, it is likely a problem with the power supply to the control board itself, meaning the main control board, part number PS17137050, is the most probably the culprit. But if you see lights on the UI board but no functionality, then the issue may lie within the configured user interface board, part number PS17137058. You may need to replace the part accordingly. We hope this information helps!
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE
Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.
Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.