GDF610PGJ6BB General Electric Dishwasher - Overview

I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN5t4VFgLCY

Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.