This is a flood switch assembly for your washer. The flood switch controls the hot and cold water filling your washer tub to ensure the proper amount of water. You may need to replace this part if you...
This is an end cap for a dishwasher rack. This part is about 2.5 inches long, is black, and is made of plastic. You may need to replaced this part if it is broken, or if your dishwasher rack continuou...
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
This is replacement door latch for your dishwasher. The door latch is attached to the tub frame, and connects to the door strike to keep your dishwasher door closed during operation. If you have a bro...
The drain hose elbow carries water from the sump to the drain pump. If the waste water is not draining from the dishwasher, there could be an issue with the drain hose elbow. Check the drain hose for ...
Having trouble with your home appliances? A malfunctioning water valve may be to blame. Don't stress! We've got a straightforward and effective solution. Allow us to introduce the Water Inlet Valve ...
This conduit adapter attaches to the central wash arm in your dishwasher to allow the arm to clean dishes thoroughly and properly. This genuine OEM adapter is made of high quality plastic and measures...
The lower rack roller supports the smooth sliding of your dishwasher’s bottom rack. Measuring 1.5 inches in diameter and charcoal-colored, this OEM replacement part is sold individually. Replace all f...
This hose clamp kit contains two clamps. The smaller of the two is an inch in diameter while the larger of the two is two inches in diameter.
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Questions And Answers for GDF520PGD0CC
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Donald
December 5, 2019
GE dishwasher runs for hours! What do part do i need? someone told me i need a timer or timer wheel. if so could you give me the actual part number so i can order?
For model number GDF520PGD0CC
Hi Donald, thank you for your question. This appliance does not have a mechanical timer like that. The parts that you may want to check would be your heating element, turbidity sensor, and if those parts are fine then you may want to look at your main electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
Took off the kickplate, diconnected the wires and removed the whole door by lifting straight up, removing spring wires from hinges. Once door is disconnected from the machine, removed one hinge by removing bolt. Slid gasket into place, secured hinge back in place, then reconnected wires at bottom, replaced hinge spring wires and slid door back down onto hinges. Now that we know how to do it, could do it in 15 min to half hour.
We tried cleaning out the filter and it clogged with a huge amount of gunk. We removed the gunk, scrubbed the filter, and tried running the dishwasher, but still no water. That took over an hour (not counting the time the dishwasher spent running). Then we tried your diagnosis center and it pointed to the flood switch or the water valve. I extracted the flood switch (another 30-60 minutes) to check it, and it also contained gunk and (significantly) did not rattle, which made me suspect the flood switch was the problem, so I ordered one. Once the replacement arrived, I checked it and the flood switch rattled, confirming that it should work properly. I spent 30-45 minutes installing it, plus the filter assembly and racks I had to remove to access it. Ran the dishwasher and everything came out sparkling clean. I don't know where the gunk came from, but if you aren't getting water and the filter is full of gunk, check the flood switch.
Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.
