GCWM1069QS7 (ASSEELC) LG Washer - Overview

Sections of the GCWM1069QS7

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Magnetic Door Plunger – Part Number: AGM73610701
Magnetic Door Plunger
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
PartSelect #: PS3618292
Manufacturer #: AGM73610701
The magnetic door plunger attaches to the inner door panel of your washer and will hold the door open when the washer is not in use and allows the door and tub seal to dry. By doing this it will preve...
$78.50
  In Stock
Rear Tub Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER2004A
Rear Tub Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS3522855
Manufacturer #: 4036ER2004A
$47.14
  In Stock
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear – Part Number: MAP61913707
Washer Tub Bearing, Rear
PartSelect #: PS11711138
Manufacturer #: MAP61913707
This tub bearing is for washers. Tub bearing supports the spin basket shaft at the tub. Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
$73.08
  In Stock
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose – Part Number: 4738ER1002A
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS3523345
Manufacturer #: 4738ER1002A
This hose has bellows to allow for flexibility during the wash and spin cycles.
$80.21
  In Stock
Drain Hose Assembly – Part Number: 5215ER2002G
Drain Hose Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS3527325
Manufacturer #: 5215ER2002G
$88.40
  In Stock
Washer Gasket – Part Number: 4036ER4001B
Washer Gasket
PartSelect #: PS3522859
Manufacturer #: 4036ER4001B
This round rubber tub seal is designed to prevent water leakage between the front and rear halves of the outer tub in select washing machines. Positioned at the junction of the tub components, it comp...
$43.85
  In Stock
Washer Switch Assembly – Part Number: EBF61315802
Washer Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS7792232
Manufacturer #: EBF61315802
This door lock switch is a key component in compatible washing machines, designed to signal the control board when the door is securely closed. Once engaged, it enables the locking mechanism and allow...
$205.79
  In Stock
Inlet Valve Assembly – Part Number: 5221ER1003M
Inlet Valve Assembly
PartSelect #: PS12579227
Manufacturer #: 5221ER1003M
$128.38
  In Stock
Bearing,Ball – Part Number: 4280FR4048N
Bearing,Ball
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS3522899
Manufacturer #: 4280FR4048N
Tub bearing. This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly.
$128.78
  In Stock
Washer Hose Connector – Part Number: 5214FR4006G
Washer Hose Connector
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS3527289
Manufacturer #: 5214FR4006G
This part is the replacement connector hose or clean-out drain hose for your washer. It is black in color and is sold individually. The connector hose drains water out of the washer if the drain cycle...
$17.44
  In Stock
SENSOR ASSEMBLY – Part Number: EBD48922821
SENSOR ASSEMBLY
PartSelect #: PS16878771
Manufacturer #: EBD48922821
Having trouble with your LG appliance? It might be time to consider replacing the sensor assembly. This genuine OEM sensor assembly is designed and built to the highest standards by LG, allowing your ...
$121.00
  In Stock
Washer Tub Bearing – Part Number: MAP61913708
Washer Tub Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11711139
Manufacturer #: MAP61913708
Tub bearing. This part is very difficult to install. The manufacturer recommends replacing the complete rear tub and bearing assembly.
$82.48
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for GCWM1069QS7

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Common Symptoms of the GCWM1069QS7

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Leaking
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Lid or door won’t close
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Locking Issues
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Will not drain
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Spinning Issues
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Noisy and Marks Left on Clothes
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Water Filling Issues
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Burning smell
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Will Not Start
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Draining Issues
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door would not close
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
Parts Used:
Magnetic Door Plunger
  • Omnitech from Warrenville, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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leaking tub-to-pump drain hose
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
Parts Used:
Tub-to-Pump Drain Hose
  • Leslie from STOWE, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
Parts Used:
Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Washer Gasket Rear Tub Gasket
  • Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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