FPCE19TPH1 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the FPCE19TPH1
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Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
PartSelect #: PS423801
Manufacturer #: 215846602
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
$48.97
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Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside yo...
$30.38
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Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS469269
Manufacturer #: 5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
$50.69
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Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS450319
Manufacturer #: 5300158289
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
$173.39
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Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS473177
Manufacturer #: 5308000010
$67.38
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Door/Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS474672
Manufacturer #: 5309918806
This part turns the light on/off as the door opens and closes.
$39.26
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Hexagonal Screw
PartSelect #: PS1526503
Manufacturer #: 241710601
Sold individually.
$27.85
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Door Rack - Cut-to-Fit
PartSelect #: PS423077
Manufacturer #: 215516220
This rack may be longer than what is needed. You will need to cut this rack to make it fit your appliance.
$67.08
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Door Shelf End Cap - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS467978
Manufacturer #: 5303325990
Note: As per manufacture this end cap is the right side.
$31.65
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Door Shelf End Cap - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS467979
Manufacturer #: 5303325991
This white door shelf end cap is used for left side of some refrigerator door shelves. Note: As per the manufacture this end cap is for the left side.
$31.65
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Freezer Shelf End Cap
PartSelect #: PS445189
Manufacturer #: 3201150
Sold Individually. These fit on the tips of the shelf to keep it from sliding forward.
$9.95
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Questions And Answers for FPCE19TPH1
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Common Symptoms of the FPCE19TPH1
[Viewing 15 of 15]Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Light not working
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Too warm
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Door Sweating
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Door won’t open or close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Warrington, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
Parts Used:
-
Jordan from Maumee, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Light socket melted around bulb
After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
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William from Alexandria, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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