F14F1CDYP7 (ASSEECI) LG Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Followed directions on the video and went like a charm. Very impressed with service and video

Followed the videos on line. However instead of buying the $75 spring expansion tool I used two zip ties. One at each end of the spring to create loops for my index fingers to pull the spring apart. Needed a second person to help hold the ring in place at 3&9 position.

I did repaired while looking at video at your site .thanks to your team ..

1 - Remove 3 electrical connections
2 - Slide spring clamp back an inch or so on 1 hose. Pull hose off of old unit. Attach the same hose to new unit and reclamp.
3 - Repeat with other 2 hoses
4 - Reconnect electrical connections

Watched several YouTube DIY videos and followed the step by step directions. I also disconnected several other hoses and cleaned them out. Since I live in an hard-water area, deep cleaning may become a 6- month preventative maintenance routine.

I followed the video and my repair went just like the expert showed on the video. The hardest part was pulling the washer away from the wall and getting enough elbow room to be able to work on the washer. I will definitely come back to this site for my next appliance repair.

Unplug the washer! Turn off the HOT water valve. Remove the hot water hose at the connection on the back of the washer. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the top of the washer. Slide the lid toward the rear until you feel it disengage, then lift it off, setting it aside.
Unplug the electrical connector on top of the hot water valve (just pulls off).using pliers compress the hose clamp, slide it away from the hot water valve and pull the hose off the valve fitting(it will have some water remaining so lift it up and secure it to the brace above the hoses).
Remove the two phillips head screws that hold the valve in place. Pull the valve toward the front of the washer to remove it and compare it to the new valve.
To install the new valve, reverse all steps insuring tight water hose clamp and electrical connection. Install hot water hose, plug it in and turn on water. Test run and check for leaks. Unplug it and reinstall top.

Wife called me and said the washing machine just flooded the Landry room. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong. Took the top off and the back off and started looking for a leak, did not see anything. Took the front part of the washer apart thinking the drain hole was plugged up where the rubber boot is. It was ok after taking the big rubber boot off or whatever that is called i was not getting anywhere. I put it back together left the top and the back off. I turned the water on and started the washer on a quick cycle looking for a leak. I found the bellows at the inlet had a small leak fixed that and started the washer again. So what i found out was the clean out drain plug was not in tight letting water out as it was washing after i tightened it all was ok. So i did find a leak that was small that we never saw. The hardest part was putting that wire clamp on the rubber boot it took two people to do that.

Went to U tube found several good videos relative to the problem, suggest you do the same. Heavy rubber diaphragm seal retainer spring VERY difficult to expand, bought a replacement spring with less tension and it worked fine. Plastic clip at the back of the cabinet does not have to be removed. Squeeze it and it will unlatch to free the hose, The part supplied was an exact replacement for the original, it worked just fine. Good luck.

Very simple. Watched video.
Pulled the washer out to get behind it.
Turned off water supply, unplugged it.
Unscrewed the screwesholding the top in place, slid top back, lifted it off.
Used pliers to open the clamps holding the pipes to the valve - one at a time. And fitted the pipes to new valve, one at a time.
SOME WATER REMAINS IN THESE PIPES, SO PUT A TOWEL UNDERNEATH TO CATCH IT.
Removed the electrical connectors one at a time and fitted them to the new valve one at a time.
Did same to the hot valve - not leaking but decided to replace it before it did leak.
Reattached water supply hoses and electric plug.
Tested the washer cycle to make sure no leaks.
Put top back on and pushed washer back to wall.
Apart from the testing, the whole job took 25 minutes.
The parts arrived on Day 2 after the order.
VERY PLEASED WITH EVERYTHING!

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

E. Z. hardest part (which isn't hard) was moving the appliance to reach the back, then putting the appliance back into place. the actual repair (swapping out valve) took less time than that to do.

Turned off hot and cold water supply. Pulled out machine and disconnected hoses, unplugged power.

Unscrewed 4 screws at back top of machine (holding plastic bracket to cover). Pulled out trays from front where detergent is poured, and removed small screws under trays.

Slid cover back and up. This was the only tricky part. There are pegs that must line up with large holes in cover before you can easily lift cover up. Helps to look from underneath and find pegs on each side.

Using pliers, fully open clamps holding hoses to the inlet valves, and carefully pull off hoses while keeping clamps open with pliers… making sure to keep track of which hose goes to each motor. Take a picture of electrical connectors noting color and sequence of connectors on each inlet valve motor. Pull all connectors off.

Unscrew screws holding each inlet valve to machine. Put new inlet valves in place of old, and screw in place. Reconnect hoses (using pliers to hold open clamps, then slide clamps over tubing and inlet valve connector). Reconnect electrical connectors carefulljng lining up colors of wires and sequence using picture taken in previous step.

Replace cover. Screw all screws back to secure cover. Replace trays.

First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.