This hot water inlet valve is designed to regulate water flow into the washing machine during operation. Featuring a standard hose fitting inlet and a single water outlet, it opens as needed to allow ...
This washer hose with bellows, also known as a dispenser hose, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your washer. Replacing this part can be helpful if your washer is leaking. The dispenser hose conne...
This washer sensor assembly, also known as a motor rotor position sensor, is a genuine OEM replacement part designed to monitor the direction and speed of the rotor during operation. By communicating ...
The magnetic door plunger attaches to the inner door panel of your washer and will hold the door open when the washer is not in use and allows the door and tub seal to dry. By doing this it will preve...
This round rubber tub seal is designed to prevent water leakage between the front and rear halves of the outer tub in select washing machines. Positioned at the junction of the tub components, it comp...
Looking for a vital component to keep your washing machine running smoothly? The LG thermistor is exactly what you need. This little gadget plays a crucial role in your machine. Working hand-in-hand...
The blue plastic detergent dispenser holds the detergent and then dispenses it into the washer during the wash cycle. If the detergent dispenser is broken, lost, or if the detergent is not dispensed d...
This replacement pump filter, also known as a filter assembly, is a genuine OEM part for your washer or washer/dryer combo. Before beginning this repair, turn off the power and water supply to your wa...
I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.
There is a magnet at the bottom of the door which allows the door to be held ajar when the washer is not in use to allow the tub and gaskets to dry. A tab on the plastic housing which retains the magnet broke which allowed the housing to pull free of the door and stick itself to the machine preventing the door to close. Easy fix to replace the magnet was $18. Instructions were included in the box. Part number on the drawing was A165. PS3618292 Magnetic Door Plunger
Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.
