This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
This is the replacement vegetable pan cover for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and measures approximately 26 inches by 18 inches. This part is the frame of the pan only, and does not i...
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This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This snack pan slide rail, also known as a drawer slide rail, is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This slide rail is white in color, and serves to help your snack pan slide in and...
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
This condenser fan motor is made for a refrigerator. The motor powers your fan to circulate air to the condenser coil. The condenser coil removes heat from the refrigerant gas. The motor base measures...
This single outlet valve has 1/4 inch compression fittings, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have ice makers that make crescent shaped ice cubes.
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This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated.
$91.91
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Dave
August 18, 2021
The ice maker is making noise and the freezer doesn't seem cold enough part #820
For model number DTL18ICSWRBS
Hi Dave,
Thank you for your question. If the noise coming from your ice maker is a rattling, humming, buzzing or a vibrating sound, it could be trying to fill with water. An ice maker fills with water every 1 to 1-1/2 hours. If you are hearing this noise every 15 minutes, the ice maker is not getting any water and you will need to turn it on. If it is on, check the water lines for blockages. If the water lines are fine, you will need to check the water inlet valve. If your freezer is too warm, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the run capacitor, the evaporator fan motor and blade, the condenser fan motor and blade, the defrost heater, the defrost timer and the defrost thermostat. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple. Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use. The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap. After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.
The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.