This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
This double inlet water valve has quick connections. This valve has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a fil...
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Questions And Answers for DSE25JSHECSS
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Sharla
September 22, 2022
Does the GE replacement water filter need to say MWFP, as listed in your description on this site? Or can it be MWF?
For model number DSE25JSHECSS
Hi Sharla, thank you for reaching out to us. The water filter, part number PS8746144, will fit your model number. The GE MWF water filters have been improved by GE and are now called the MWFP filters. We hope this helps!
need water filter....it says mwfp but my filter just says mwf
For model number DSE25JSHECSS
Hi Michael, thank you for reaching out. The part you are looking for is the water filter, part number PS8746144, which replaces your filter and will fit your model. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
My refrigerator started making loud noises I pulled it out to make sure air could circulate and brushed the black grate off. I used air to remove built up dust. It still would not go to temp freezer is 20 and 55 for the refrigerator. I pressed the water button and held it while water came out of the fridge then it finally started coming out from where it is supposed to. The water tank is freezing now but not temping nor making ice
For model number DSE25JSHECSS
Hi Vikki,
Thank you for your question. If you just dusted the coils off, it may take some time for the temperature to go back to normal. Refrigerant flows through the coils and as it does heat is released from it and out through the coils. If the issue with the temperature continues, you will need to check the temperature sensor, the dispenser control board and the main control board. If the ice maker is not making ice, you will need to check the water fill tubes, the water inlet valve, the water filter and the ice maker. We have included some links that you may reference on how to check these parts. Once you have determined the parts you need, please feel free to call customer service. We are open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. We look forward to hearing from you!
I am getting water in the ice trays now it’s just not cold enough. Obviously ??????? I know I kept getting a light for the water filter, could this solve my issue? I also forgot to add that items in my bottom tray freeze just the top areas aren’t very cold
For model number DSE25JSHECSS
Hello Vikki, thank you for your question. We feel this issue is with the Temperature Sensor PS304103. The best way to test it is to remove the thermistor from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature or grab a glass of ice water to test the thermistor. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. We have a video for you to access. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
Refrigerator temperature is 56 and freezer temperature is 17. Both are set at 35 and 0 respectively
For model number DSE25JSHECSS
Hi Mike, thank you for reaching out. It seems that there is an issue with the main control board, part number PS16729755. It manages the functions of the refrigerator such as cooling and defrost times. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope that helps!
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The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo the connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
I used a digital camera and photographed the assembled unit and the metal blades before I started the repair. Then, I removed the top screw on the clear shield. Flip over ice tray and removed two Phillips screws on bottom. Exterior plastic white cover comes off next. The cover sides have hard push-in white plastic tabs. Push them in; pry up top cover with small flathead screwdriver. Slide white top cover up and you will now see the metal blades and assembly. Auger is held in place with a metal c-clip and washer on the end. Use flat head screwdriver to pry off c-clip. Then you will see a nylon round slotted nut. The threads are reverse, use pliers and loosen nut. It is not that tight but pliers are needed. Then it all is loose and ready for removal. I slid all the blades off at one time and kept them stacked together. Slide out auger and clear flat shield cover. Install new auger, clear shield, and metal blade stack. When you put it all back together take a look at the long metal J-hook on the bottom make sure it is in the slot before you make everything tight. Failing to do this will prevent cubed ice from dispensing. It is not that hard to do the repair it just takes some patience and paying attention to details.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.