This Genuine OEM door latch is designed for use with a wide range of GE clothes dryers. Constructed from a combination of durable metal and plastic, the latch is mounted onto the dryer frame to secure...
This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as poss...
The lint filter and frame for your dryer traps unwanted lint and debris so your dryer can effectively dry your clothes. If the old lint filter is cracked or clogged, or the dryer takes too long to dry...
Replaces "T" and "V" style motors. Includes two motor pulleys. If you have an older model dryer, the pulley may be pressed on or held on with a set screw. If pulley is pressed on, a new motor pulley must be ordered.
At just under three inches, this metal spring fits onto the arm of the idler pulley assembly of many of GE's clothes dryers. It provides for the tension needed in the belt by keeping the idler snug and stable.
first I took the dryer apart 1st thing i did was unplug the power supply (safety first) then I removed the top of the unit then removed the front cleaned all the lint from the inside of the cabinet I found the proper belt size on part select.com the next day I had my dryer belt delivered (which cost 1/3 the price of the local repair shop price) then I placed the belt over the dryer drum and made sure it was in the general location it should be I then replaced the front cover and the top. then I removed the rear cover which was held on by six 5/16 sheet metal screws which gave me access to the drive pulley and belt tensioner the belt goes on by going under the tensioner then around the drive pulley Then i rotated the drum by hand to make sure everything had clearance I then buttend everything up plugged it and started it up it workd fine and I figure Ill get another 8 years out of it Thank you partselect.com
first had to troubleshoot... used multimeter to check all switches, they were good.
then checked thermostats, good again.
then checked motor centrifugal switch.. good.
with multimeter i found continuity between heating coil leads and heater housing. coil had broken and welded itself to housing.
changed coil in short time with restring kit (which got here amazingly fast) and everything is great.
ps: PartsSelect got me the part super fast and it was what i needed. also at a great price. would order from them again.
added note: if i were to do this again i would order the porcelain insulators that insulate the leads to the coils, they were old and very fragile and i experienced some fragmentation.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
