The drive belt is made to wrap around the drum, working with the tension pulley to rotate the drum. If your dryer drum will not turn, then you may need to replace your belt. This drive belt is 1/4-inc...
$83.58
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The lint filter sits in your dryer, and collects loose lint when the machine is operating. Sometimes the lint filter will become clogged or damaged, and in this case, you will need to replace your cur...
$79.43
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This lint filter guide cover is a replacement component for select dryers, designed to support the lint filter assembly and help maintain efficient airflow during drying cycles. Made entirely of durab...
$79.85
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Looking to extend the lifespan of your LG electric dryer? Our authentic LG Idle Pulley could be the missing piece you need! This little thing plays a big role in keeping your dryer working smoothly an...
$42.63
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This plastic adjustable dryer leg is used to support the weight and adjust the height of your dryer to keep it level. To install the leg, tip the dryer back and screw it into the bottom of your dryer ...
$13.88
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Take a look at this essential LG Dryer Safety Switch Assembly. A don't-miss fixture for your LG Dryer. This is more than just a part, it's a safeguard for you. If your dryer's door springs open, this ...
$56.87
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Questions And Answers for DLE7150W
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PAULO
March 30, 2025
I cleaned my dryer to the fullest vent hose,humid censor.my dryer starts heats then then goes on cooling mode after 2 minutes and ready to shut off
For model number DLE7150W
Hi Paulo,
Thank you for your question. If you have cleaned the moisture sensor and removed lint from the dryer duct, hose, and exterior vent, and the dryer still shuts off after a few minutes, we recommend checking the door/safety switch, the motor, the belt, and the heater assembly. We hope this helps!
We are needing to replace the inner glass on the dryer door.
For model number DLE7150W
Hello Tina, thank you for your question. The part you are looking for is the frame assembly, part number PS3518471. It includes both the inner frame and the glass. The glass is not available as an individual part. We hope this helps.
Dry does not heat when on normal dry or energy saver, but heats on more dry and if the energy saver is off. Checked venting and it is venting well. Thank you.
For model number DLE7150W
Hello Steve, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the control board, part number PS16662495, to solve the problem. A malfunctioning control board can most probably cause this issue. We hope this helps!
My dryer is a little over 3 years old. It seems to be getting louder and making odd noises. I'm wondering if I should refurbish it with a new belt, etc. Is there a refurb kit for this model? If not, what parts typically wear out soonest and make the most sense to replace just as routine maintenence?
For model number DLE7150W
Hello Dan, thank you for your inquiry. There are some more common parts for your to try to solve odd noises. Firs, try replacing the belt PS11705916, the idler pulley and spring kit PS3523033. We hope this helps.
I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal fuse was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.
I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent. I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it. Pulled the top cover off (slides back). Took the door off Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer Took the two screws off of the back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame. Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off. Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover). Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws). I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side). Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers). Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.
The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.
Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.
