TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the...
This Genuine OEM door latch is designed for use with a wide range of GE clothes dryers. Constructed from a combination of durable metal and plastic, the latch is mounted onto the dryer frame to secure...
This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as poss...
Need a solution for your dryer that's lost its spin? Our GE Drum Drive Belt is what you've been looking for. This fundamental component connects to your dryer's motor pulley, letting your dryer drum r...
Need a hand getting your dryer back up and running smoothly? Look no further! The GE Idler Pulley Wheel is exactly what you need. The small but mighty idler pulley wheel is made from highly durable ...
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wires then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
