DBSR453GA2AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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Dryer would not start
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.
Parts Used:
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Joshua from Dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Parts Used:
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Gary from Spring Hill, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
61 of 80 people
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The Dryer would not start
Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.
The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.
The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.
Parts Used:
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David from Curtice, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers
60 of 107 people
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I changed a dryer for natural to Lp gas
I received the part in record time.(2 days) I had a little trouble getting the case off of the dryer, but the part was real easy to install. I have changed these before with another company and their instructins were not good at all. Your instruction were relly easy to understand, step by step.
Thanks
Thanks
Parts Used:
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Ricard from Pittsfield, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
25 of 52 people
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Timer would not control the drye
Took out four screws on the upper panel and removed. Turn the control in the inner panel allowing it to seperate from the inner panel. Changed each wire at at time from the old control to the new one. Reassembled unit and tested it. All worked well.
Parts Used:
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Wesley from Highland Springs, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
21 of 42 people
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Dryer would not start.
First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.
Parts Used:
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Brad from DELAVAN, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people
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The Front Drum Glides wore out
I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.
Parts Used:
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Al from Elmhurst, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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The electrical cord had been severed.
First I laid the cabinet on its front so that it was easier to remove the back sheetmetal screws on the right hand side. I then opened up the right side of the cabinet and held it open with a 2X4. I was able to reach inside the cabinet and unplug the wiring. It was more difficult reaching the ground wire and removing the screw that it was attached to however i found that using a socket with an extension was the most effective. The cordset popped right out with the assistance of a flat head screwdriver. The cordset and ground wire were set in place and attached without trouble.
It was difficult trying to figure out how to open up the cabinet without instruction!!!
It was difficult trying to figure out how to open up the cabinet without instruction!!!
Parts Used:
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Coretta S. from Napa, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 8 people
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Replaced Drum Bearing Front And Rear
Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought
Parts Used:
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philip from pickens, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 6 people
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Loud noise
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Mary from Enterprise, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
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No flame. Igniter came on but no gas.
Opened up dryer for access to all components and tested. All checked good. Put back together and tested and igniter came on but no flame. Purchased two new coils and tested again. No flame. Purchased complete valve assembly and replaced old one. Tested again and viola, success! TY PartSelect for exact replacement part.
Parts Used:
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Gary from CHRISMAN, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
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Timer was wore completely out won't move at all
Took 4 screws out of the top control panel flipped it over got the new timer put the wires off the old timer on the new twisted the old one off twisted the new one on put control panel back on screws back in turned power back on perfect like new
Parts Used:
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jeff from LOUDON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
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No heat from dryer. Diagnosed by others as the Gas Valve
Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.
Parts Used:
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William from Deerfield, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
1 person
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Switch not working.
Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.
Parts Used:
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Alan from BELFORD, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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I had to convert from natural gas to liquid propane
My son is an engineer and repairs washers and dryers for a large commercial laundry company on a daily basis. He installed my part easily and had me up and running in no time.
Parts Used:
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Sandra from Brazil, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
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