CWG3600AAB26 Maytag Wall Oven - Overview
Sections of the CWG3600AAB26
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$22.58
In Stock
Oven Igniter - Vertical Mount Bake and Broil
PartSelect #: PS2085070
Manufacturer #: 74007498
This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and an seven inch long dual wire lead with a plastic plug.
$118.27
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
PartSelect #: PS971245
Manufacturer #: 4396923
The top of this part is now black.
$59.89
In Stock
Stand Mixer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742292
Manufacturer #: WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
$11.95
In Stock
Door Seal - Top
PartSelect #: PS11743943
Manufacturer #: WP7212P006-60
This oven door seal is seventeen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
$90.04
Special Order
Appliance Screw
PartSelect #: PS11743002
Manufacturer #: WP59002061
Sold individually.
$10.09
In Stock
Range Frame Screw
PartSelect #: PS11743908
Manufacturer #: WP7101P126-60
Sold Individually.
$10.09
In Stock
Broiler Pan
PartSelect #: PS11741639
Manufacturer #: WP3401F075-19
This broil pan is fourteen inches wide, and almost sixteen inches long. It is made of black porcelain.
$46.39
Special Order
Screw
PartSelect #: PS2078789
Manufacturer #: 7101P345-60
This screw is sold individually.
$26.58
Special Order
Questions And Answers for CWG3600AAB26
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Rhondalyn
March 23, 2025
NEED TO REPLACE SPRING FOR OVEN DOOR SERIAL NO. D50313424
For model number CWG3600AAB26
Hello Rhondalyn, thank you for reaching out. The door spring you are looking for does not come separately, and it comes as a part of the door hinge. Your model comes with 2 door hinges having part numbers PS2080598 and PS2082006. We hope this helps!
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Common Symptoms of the CWG3600AAB26
[Viewing 7 of 7]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Element will not heat
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Gas smell
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Oven not heating evenly
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn’t heat up properly
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
Good luck.
Parts Used:
-
James from Berwick, ME
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
249 of 284 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Our oven would not heat up, smelled like gas.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00
Parts Used:
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Theresa from Yorkville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
67 of 74 people
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Oven would not turn on
First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.
Parts Used:
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William from Newkirk, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
58 of 65 people
found this instruction helpful.
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