This grease filter is almost fourteen inches long and almost twelve inches wide. This filter is intended for use with some downdraft cooktops and ranges.
$49.14
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This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a key electrical component that controls the heat output of your stovetop burners. When you turn the control knob, the switch adjusts t...
$115.24
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Sold individually. This surface burner knob is a little under two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with gray numbering indicating the temperature level of the surface burner. Made entirely of pl...
$40.59
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This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
$143.86
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This may look different than the original, but is a functional equivalent. When installing this part, you may be required to drill holes and file the metal edges to adapt the switch to the original panel.
If your oven’s grill isn’t heating up or cooking evenly, this grill element could be the fix. It’s the part that gives off high heat for grilling and fits many brands like Whirlpool, Maytag, and Kitch...
$307.78
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Linden
January 31, 2025
When I switch on back left burner, front left burner comes on as well. Help!! Thanks.
For model number CVE4370B
Hi Linden, thank you for contacting us. Based on our understanding, we would suggest checking the surface element switch, part number PS12347301. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
