CVE3401W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the CVE3401W
[Viewing 4 of 4]Manuals & Care Guides for CVE3401W
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Cooktop Downdraft Vent Grease Filter
PartSelect #: PS11757584
Manufacturer #: WPY706012
This grease filter is sixteen and a half inches long and nine inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft ranges and cooktops.
$61.35
In Stock
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Dual Radiant Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11759488
Manufacturer #: W10823709
The Dual Radiant Surface Element with Limiter is an OEM replacement designed to efficiently distribute heat across the cooking surface of ranges. Equipped with a limiter for safety, it prevents overhe...
$243.72
In Stock
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Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
PartSelect #: PS2003583
Manufacturer #: 12002125
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
$112.85
In Stock
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Surface Burner Switch
PartSelect #: PS12070671
Manufacturer #: W11088181
This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
$106.36
In Stock
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6 Inch Element with Limiter
PartSelect #: PS11764912
Manufacturer #: W10823704
This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
$340.26
In Stock
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Cooktop Cleaner
PartSelect #: PS3492527
Manufacturer #: W10355051
This cooktop cleaner will cut through tough grease and baked-on residue. The cleaner will leave a protective coating of silicone on the cooktop surface as it cleans. This 10oz bottle is safe for all g...
$21.75
Special Order
Infinite Switch Grommet
PartSelect #: PS11757586
Manufacturer #: WPY706102
$12.91
In Stock
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Range Exhaust Vent Blower Wheel
PartSelect #: PS11757592
Manufacturer #: WPY707985
This exhaust vent blower wheel is almost seven inches in diameter, and just under four inches deep. It is made entirely of metal and is used with a range's venting system.
$143.86
On Order
Stand Mixer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742292
Manufacturer #: WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
$11.41
In Stock
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Range Motor Isolator
PartSelect #: PS11743903
Manufacturer #: WP71003558
This motor isolator is less than an inch long.
$16.43
In Stock
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Surface Element
PartSelect #: PS11759487
Manufacturer #: W10823707
Facing problems with your Whirlpool smoothtop range? Is the heating element not performing as it should? That's where our specifically-designed 8" Whirlpool surface element, also known as the ELMNT-SU...
$290.71
In Stock
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Questions And Answers for CVE3401W
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Nancy
February 9, 2024
How much is the shipping on aluminum grease filter?
For model number CVE3401W
Hello Nancy, thank you for asking. You will have to choose one of the options listed on our site. 1) Econo Ship (Usually 3-7 Business Days) ($9.25) or Standard (Usually 2-3 Business Days) ($11.45) or Next Business Day ($32.95). We hope this helps.
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Common Symptoms of the CVE3401W
[Viewing 2 of 2]Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.
Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
Parts Used:
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Michael from Collierville, TN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.
The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label
1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.
Done.
Parts Used:
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Igor from Campbell, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Outer Ring of Dual Radiant Burner Does Not Come On
Undid two screws on underside of cook top, lifted and exposed underside. Transferred wires from the faulty burner to the new burner, one at a time, paying close attention to their respective position on the wiring posts/terminals. Undid two screws holding old burner and then mounted the new burner to underside of cook top. Was really simple to do. :)
Parts Used:
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Christopher from Fredericksburg, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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