CSX22GABGWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview

Sections of the CSX22GABGWW

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Defrost Heater Harness Kit – Part Number: WR51X10101
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS1993872
Manufacturer #: WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
$155.93
  Special Order
Light Bulb - 40W – Part Number: 40A15
Light Bulb - 40W
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
$19.10
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Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet – Part Number: WR02X10098
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
★★★★★
★★★★★
(4)
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$17.70
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Bottom Hinge Assembly – Part Number: WR13X10020
Bottom Hinge Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$79.98
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Hinge Cam Riser – Part Number: WR02X10140
Hinge Cam Riser
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS284596
Manufacturer #: WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
$20.24
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Door Handle - White – Part Number: WR12X10332
Door Handle - White
PartSelect #: PS289204
Manufacturer #: WR12X10332
Handle only. Extensions and mounting hardware is sold separately.
  No Longer Available
Defrost Heater with Thermostat – Part Number: WR51X10031
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303762
Manufacturer #: WR51X10031
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature.
$166.15
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Screw – Part Number: WH2X930
Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$13.95
  Special Order
Evaporator Fan Motor – Part Number: WR60X10008
Evaporator Fan Motor
PartSelect #: PS304600
Manufacturer #: WR60X10008
This part may appear different than the original, but will function the same. This evaporator fan motor is located in the back of the freezer, and circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These co...
$190.72
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Condenser Fan Blade – Part Number: WR60X10030
Condenser Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS304622
Manufacturer #: WR60X10030
  No Longer Available
Freezer Wire Shelf – Part Number: WR71X10715
Freezer Wire Shelf
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS2323420
Manufacturer #: WR71X10715
Need a new shelf for your GE freezer? You're in the right place! Meet our GE Freezer Wire Shelf, also known as SHELF FZ. This isn't just any replacement part, it's a simple and effective way to keep y...
  No Longer Available
Screw – Part Number: WR01X10038
Screw
PartSelect #: PS283488
Manufacturer #: WR01X10038
This screw is sold individually. Size 8 -18 ab fltr 5/8.
$9.78
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for CSX22GABGWW

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Common Symptoms of the CSX22GABGWW

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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Door won’t open or close
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Too warm
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Clicking sound
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Fridge too cold
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the refrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).

1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
Parts Used:
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
  • Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
409 of 435 people found this instruction helpful.
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The back of my freezer section was covered with ice.
1. Important: First you will need to prepare for water from melted ice. Plug the drain hole in the bottom rear of the freezer. Have plenty of rags near by. A pan or small bucket is helpful.

2. Unplug refrigerator

3. Remove (4) screws (2) w/screwdriver and (2) w/nut driver. You can remove the light cover to get it out of the way but you don't have to.

4. Remove the evaporator cover (The rear wall)

5. Melt and remove any ice build up. Remember those rags?

6. Remove (2) screws from the heater bracket

7. Remove the failed heater. My old heater was a single element. The new heater was a dual element. This made no difference.

8. Disconnect (2) wires.

9. Re-route and reconnect (2) wires. The wires were re-routed because the new heater has both wires on the same side. Not a problem.

10. Install new heater on the bracket (2) screws

11. Replace cover (4) screws

12. Power up the refrigerator
Parts Used:
Defrost Heater Harness Kit
  • Brian from Cary, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
73 of 79 people found this instruction helpful.
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My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
Parts Used:
Bottom Hinge Assembly
  • Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
54 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
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